Since leaving Miami on Friday evening, we’ve had two back-to-back sea days en route to our first port of call — St. Maarten, where Brilliant Lady arrived right on schedule at 8 a.m.
If you’ve been following along, you know the Day 1 report covered embarkation, my stateroom tour (complete with photos and video), and dinner at Pink Agave. The Day 2 report focused on what’s free and what’s not aboard Virgin—diving into the bar tab system, Wi-Fi options, and the fact that all the Diet Coke and bottled water you can consume in a day are gloriously free—as well as a review of dinner at the ship’s steakhouse and seafood restaurant, The Wake.
Yesterday’s Day 3 report shared some of my likes and dislikes about Virgin Voyages and Brilliant Lady so far, including dining, entertainment, the adults-only atmosphere, and yes—my rant about influencers—and a fantastic dinner at Extra Virgin, the ship’s Italian restaurant.
With today being a port day, I took advantage of the quieter ship while most passengers were off exploring and wandered around taking photos and videos. Unfortunately, the Wi-Fi onboard makes uploading large files feel like waiting for dial-up to connect, so I’ll be saving most of the footage to post later once I’m back on land with a better connection. If you’re reading this and haven’t yet subscribed to my YouTube channel—do it! That’s where most of the videos from this voyage will end up.
Exploring St. Maarten
After catching up on a bit of work in the morning and grabbing a light bite at The Galley, I decided to head ashore and do some wandering around St. Maarten. Being the only ship in port today, it was pretty quiet—which, honestly, I love.
Brilliant Lady docks at the main cruise terminal in Philipsburg, and once you exit the port area, it’s about a 10 to 15-minute walk to the Boardwalk and Front Street—the main hub of shopping, restaurants, and bars. Just head to the left after leaving the port gates and follow the path along the water.
There isn’t much to do directly at the port itself other than browse the duty-free shops, a few souvenir stores, and grab a drink from one of the kiosks. Oh, and get a selfie by the sign.
Goodness, I got old!
If you’re after more variety (and a better atmosphere), the Boardwalk is where it’s at. It’s lined with bars and restaurants facing the beach, where you can rent chairs and umbrellas—usually for around $10 for two chairs, an umbrella, and a couple of beers thrown in. Prices vary based on who you rent them from, but all are a pretty good deal.
If you just want to hang out on the beach without renting anything, that’s totally fine—the beach is free to use, and while vendors will try to lure you in, they’re not overly pushy. A polite “no, thank you” usually does the trick.
Behind the Boardwalk is Front Street, a narrow shopping strip full of jewelry stores, clothing boutiques, and shopkeepers who channel their inner carnival barkers to get your attention. Don’t be surprised if you hear the occasional “Hey sexy, want to do some shopping?” as you stroll by. Smile, keep walking, and you’ll be fine.
Both the Boardwalk and Front Street are safe, easy to explore, and perfect if you want a relaxing day close to the ship without booking an excursion or hopping in a taxi. There is a water shuttle available from the port to the Boardwalk, but since we were the only ship in port today, it wasn’t running.
Dutch or French? You Decide!
For those wanting to see more of the island, St. Maarten is uniquely split into two sides—the Dutch side (where the cruise port is located) and the French side, which has several beautiful beaches. You can easily cross from one side to the other by taxi or rental car in about 25 to 30 minutes depending on traffic.
Generally speaking, the Dutch side (Philipsburg area) is more commercial and lively, while the French side is quieter and more European in feel, with small cafés, bakeries, and boutique shops. Most people tend to prefer the Dutch side for convenience and activity, but if you have a full day and want a bit of culture and cuisine, the French side is worth exploring.
Another must-see for first-time visitors is Maho Beach, famous for its low-flying planes landing just above the sand at Princess Juliana International Airport. It’s a bit of a tourist circus, but it’s one of those things you need to experience at least once—and you’ll definitely come home with a few of those “plane over your head” photos.
Cruiser Tips for St. Maarten:
- Wear comfortable shoes—the walk from port to town isn’t bad, but it’s hot and, like most streets and sidewalks in Caribbean stops, many are in disrepair. Pay attention, and be mindful of traffic.
- Bring small bills for chair rentals, drinks, and tips—most vendors prefer cash.
- If you’re not big on shopping, grab a spot on the beach or duck into one of the restaurants for a cold beer and great people-watching.
- If you’re planning to venture to the French side or Maho Beach, keep an eye on the clock. The ship will not wait for you! More on that in a bit.
All Aboard Isn’t a Suggestion
After getting in a little over 17,000 steps just wandering around Front Street and the Boardwalk, I headed back to my Lady Ship well before the 5:30 p.m. all aboard time.
Now, let’s talk about that phrase for a second—all aboard isn’t a friendly suggestion. It’s not “get back soon-ish.” It’s the very last minute you’re expected to be on the ship. Those viral “pier runner” videos you’ve seen online? Yeah, those people holding up sail-away because they thought it’d be funny to run down the dock at the last second? Cruise lines don’t find it funny—at all.
If you’re not on board by the all aboard time, the captain can (and often will) sail without you. And yes, people do get left behind.
If you’re wandering around on your own or booked an independent shore excursion and something delays your return, you could be out of luck if the ship departs without you. That’s why I always stress: book your excursions through the cruise line.
Cruise lines will always wait for passengers who are on their official excursions if there’s a delay. If your bus breaks down on a cruise-booked tour, you’re safe—they’ll hold the ship. But if you booked your own tour, and that same thing happens… you’ll be waving goodbye from the pier.
If you do happen to miss the ship, it’s not the end of the world—but it’s not exactly fun either. You’ll need to find a way to catch up to the next port of call, which means booking a last-minute flight (if possible), paying for a hotel if the next port is far away, and coordinating with the cruise line’s port agent to get documentation that allows you to rejoin the ship.
This is why having a passport with you—not just a photocopy—is critical. If you only brought your birth certificate and ID and the ship sails away, you’re in trouble. With a passport in hand, you can fly to the next port or back home without issue. I always tell people: take your actual passport ashore when you’re in a foreign country. Keep it in a secure place, but have it with you. If you don’t feel comfortable taking it ashore, keep it in your stateroom safe—that’s the first place ship security will look if you’re left ashore; they’ll retrieve it for the port agent.
So the rule of thumb? Book through the cruise line, know your all aboard time, and don’t be that person sprinting down the pier while 2,500 people cheer, film, and laugh from their balconies.
Dinner at Rojo by Razzle Dazzle
Unfortunately, you can tell we’re creeping into winter. By the time the ship started pulling away from the pier in St. Maarten, it was already dark. The sun dipped fast and I couldn’t help thinking, yep, those clocks are about to change soon.
After a lot of walking ashore, I decided tonight would be a low-key evening. No shows, no casino—just me wandering the ship, grabbing a drink here and there, taking in the atmosphere. Oh, and casually running into Sir Richard Branson himself. Yep, that happened. I got a selfie with him, which, let’s be honest, was a major highlight of the trip.
Around 8 p.m., I decided it was time for dinner and made my way to one of Brilliant Lady’s most talked-about restaurants: Rojo by Razzle Dazzle. This spot on Deck 5 serves brunch as well as well as breakfast and menus are below.
If you’ve sailed on any of Virgin’s other ships, you’re probably familiar with Razzle Dazzle—it’s the “mostly-vegetarian-but-with-a-naughty-side” restaurant. The space is decked out in red and white stripes and the menu mixes healthy options with a few not-so-healthy ones—because let’s be honest, nobody’s ordering kale after a day of sightseeing.
But on Brilliant Lady, Virgin decided to reimagine the concept as Rojo by Razzle Dazzle—a Spanish-inspired restaurant focusing on tapas and shared plates. Loyal Virgin sailors had been talking about it for months, and ever since reservations opened before the cruise, Rojo was the toughest table to snag. Naturally, my expectations were high.
Rojo by Razzle Dazzle Brunch Menu
Rojo by Razzle Dazzle Dinner Menu
My server came over, poured some water, explained the menu concept, and rattled off a few recommendations before taking my drink order. A basket of warm rolls with olive oil quickly arrived, and I placed my order.
Tapas Round:
- Roasted Cauliflower Catalan—golden raisins, Marcona almonds, lemon brown butter. It was… blah. But it’s cauliflower—what can you expect?
- Beef Tartare—served with potato chips instead of crostini and arranged in the shape of a fish. Points for creativity. The tartare wasn’t bad, but eating it with chips was not pleasant.
- Pimentón Cheese—smoky and salty; the best of the tapas I had (not saying much).
- Jamón Ibérico—Spanish ham with random almonds tossed on top. The “WTF” dish of the night.
- Jamón Croquettes—crispy bites I’m still debating were homemade or frozen. I’m going with frozen.
Overall, the tapas were… meh. Nothing offensive, but nothing that made me go “wow.”
For my main, I chose the Costillas de la Matanza—baby-back pork ribs with harissa honey sauce. The four little ribs looked promising until I realized each had about two bites of tough, dry meat. The sauce was overly sweet—almost dessert-level—and overpowered everything.
Then came one of those “what is happening” moments: another food runner dropped off a second plate of ribs and cauliflower, even though I already had mine. I said I’d been served; she smiled and walked away—so now I had two entrées I didn’t really want.
Dessert was churros with chocolate sauce. You’d think it’s hard to mess up churros, but these managed to be forgettable—overcooked, crispy, and not even warm. Now, it’s hard to top a Disneyland churro, but these weren’t even close.
Rojo by Razzle Dazzle was, hands-down, my most disappointing meal of the cruise so far. Maybe it was an off night, maybe the hype was too big, or maybe I should’ve followed my gut earlier when I passed The Galley and saw the carving station serving perfectly cooked prime rib and the burger of the day on a striking black bun. In hindsight, the prime rib probably would’ve been the better call.
Calling It a Night
After a little more meandering around the ship, I decided to call it an early night. I grabbed a few pieces of licorice (because, priorities) and headed back to my stateroom to do what’s become my nightly ritual—lounging in that glorious Virgin-red hammock on the balcony.
One thing worth mentioning: while the sea hasn’t been particularly rough, you definitely feel the motion on this ship. There’s been a constant sway—even up on the pool deck you can spot the horizon doing a slow bob-and-weave as Brilliant Lady cuts through the water. It’s not uncomfortable, just very noticeable. When you’re lying in bed, you feel every gentle roll and the occasional “bump in the road.” It’s been a while since I’ve been on a ship where the motion was this pronounced.
But honestly? I kind of love it. There’s something soothing about being rocked to sleep by the sea, especially when you’re wrapped up in a hammock with the night breeze drifting off the water.
Tomorrow brings our second port of call—Tortola, in the British Virgin Islands, a place I haven’t visited in well over fifteen years. I’m looking forward to seeing what’s changed and what hasn’t.
After Tortola, we’ll have two back-to-back sea days before heading to the finale of this MerMaiden voyage: Virgin’s Beach Club at Bimini in the Bahamas.
More from Tortola tomorrow—and as always, thanks for following along.