Day 7 on Koningsdam and today’s port of call is Roseau, Dominica. This is one of those stops that, much like St. John’s, Antigua, lands on my list of least favorite Caribbean ports. Not because it’s the worst place in the world, but because it’s definitely not one of those picture-postcard-pretty cruise stops and there really is not much to do right around where the ship docks unless you head off on an excursion.
Roseau is the capital of Dominica, and the island is really more known for nature than for its town. If you’re coming here expecting a polished cruise port with pretty streets, waterfront bars, and lots of things to do as soon as you walk off the ship, this is probably not going to be your favorite stop either. Roseau is more gritty than glamorous. It’s definitely not a place that as soon as you step off the ship you say, “wow, this is beautiful.” Fun fact, Dominica is known as The Nature Island, and it’s home to things like Boiling Lake and all kinds of natural scenery. That’s really the draw here, not the town itself.
Now, when you’re in Roseau, there are two places your ship can dock. There’s the main cruise port, which is the better option because that one drops you right downtown where its just a few steps away from where everyone lives and congregates. Then there’s the deep-water industrial port, which is about a mile and a half down the road and is exactly what it sounds like – a cargo port with lots of containers. No real cruise terminal to speak of. No warm welcome when you get off the ship. And definitely no sense that this place was built with cruise passengers in mind.
And today, guess where Koningsdam docked?
Yep. The deep-water port.
Meanwhile, Marella Explorer, who we’ve shared a few ports with so far this cruise, got the downtown cruise berth.
One quick look from the ship at where we were tied up and the vibe was… ugly. That’s honestly the best way to put it. It looked like one of those situations where somebody realized a second ship was in town and said, “Uh oh, hurry up and throw something together.” There are shipping containers everywhere, no actual facilities for cruise passengers, and the whole setup feels utilitarian rather than “Welcome to Roseau!” It’s not a proper cruise terminal experience by any stretch. It’s more like, “here’s a place to park the ship, now figure the rest out.”
As for what determines which ship gets which port, a lot of the time it just comes down to scheduling and who gets assigned where. If there’s only one ship in town, chances are it gets the better downtown berth. If there’s more than one, somebody usually gets stuck at the industrial port, and today that lucky ship was Koningsdam.
Scenic Narration in the Crow’s Nest
Before we arrived in Roseau this morning, there was a scheduled scenic narration up in the Crow’s Nest at 6:00 a.m. all about the scenery as we pulled into Dominica, specifically the island’s volcanic peaks, or pitons.
Now, a piton is basically a steep, sharply rising peak that instantly grabs your attention when the ship starts getting close to land. They were formed by the same volcanic forces that created the island itself, and that is why Dominica looks the way it does. The mountains rise up fast, the terrain is uneven, and the landscape is so steep and green. It’s also why this island is known more for nature, waterfalls, hot springs, and hiking than it is for pretty cruise port charm.
Volcanic islands also tend to have darker sand in some areas because of the mineral-rich material left behind by eruptions and erosion over time, so even the beaches and shoreline can look different from other spots in the Caribbean – more on that in a second.
And that’s exactly why a talk like this would be on the schedule. So for the people who like to get up early, grab a coffee, and stand in the Crow’s Nest while somebody explains what they’re looking at, this was probably a really nice way to start the day. You’re not just looking at a bunch of mountains and saying, “well, that’s pretty.” You’re looking at the result of volcanic activity that shaped the island a long, long, long time ago!
Now, was I one of those people up in the Crow’s Nest at 6:00 a.m. taking in a geology lesson first thing in the morning?
Absolutely not.
Camouflage Warning!
Like a few destinations in the Caribbean, camouflage clothing is absolutely prohibited here. And that does not just mean military uniforms. It can include shorts, shirts, hats, bags, and anything else with a camo pattern on it. Dominica treats camouflage as something reserved for the military and law enforcement, not tourists.
So why the rule? A lot of Caribbean islands have laws like this because they do not want civilians being mistaken for police, military, or security personnel. It is one of those laws that might seem silly to visitors, especially if you are coming off a ship wearing your favorite camo cargo shorts, but locally it is not viewed as a fashion choice. It is viewed as something you are not supposed to be wearing in public at all.
And yes, if you show up at the gangway in camouflage, there is a good chance ship security can stop you and tell you to go back and change before letting you off. But if you do manage to get ashore wearing it, that does not mean you are fine. Local authorities can still stop you, question you, and depending on how the law is enforced that day, you could be told to leave the area, change clothes, fined, detained, or otherwise have your day ruined in a hurry. In other words, this is one of those very easy rules to follow, so do yourself a favor and leave the camo in the suitcase.
Don’t Get Sent Back to the Ship! The Camouflage Rule You Need to Know
Ashore in Roseau From the Deep-Water Port
While I was definitely not out and about at 6:00 a.m., I did head ashore around 10:00.
Now, I mentioned that this port is not exactly cruise friendly, and I did a short video you can watch below that shows exactly how this setup works. You walk off the ship, follow the signs out, pass stacks of cargo containers, and eventually come upon a few merchant stalls selling trinkets and the usual collection of stuff you absolutely do not need. And that is pretty much it. If you need a restroom, you better plan ahead.
Once you get out to the main street, expect the usual barrage of taxi drivers and self-appointed tour guides offering to take you downtown or show you around the island. They line up out there and have no problem stopping in the road, hopping out, and asking if you want a ride. Some are more persistent than others, and by “persistent” I mean relentless. One guy followed me for a pretty good stretch talking about how he has four kids and could use the money, and no matter how many times I said no, he kept going. When I told him I did not even have cash, he let me know he could take a credit card. So yes, this is begging with upgraded payment options.
If you want to walk downtown from the deep-water port, it is easy enough. Just hang a right and follow the water. That’s the easy part. The not-so-easy part is the actual walk. If you have mobility issues, use a walker or scooter, or are just not great on your feet, this is not the place for you. Sidewalks appear and disappear, sometimes you’re forced right out into traffic, holes pop up out of nowhere, pavement is uneven, and you really do need to pay attention to where you’re stepping. It’s about a mile and a half into downtown from here, which is about a 20 to 25 minute walk, but it is not exactly a pleasant stroll.
And honestly, once you get downtown, it does not suddenly become some polished little tourist village either. You know you’ve reached it because it gets busy fast with locals. There are outdoor markets, produce vendors, little stalls, shops, and plenty going on, but make no mistake, this is a working town for the people who live here, not some cruise-created fantasyland built to entertain passengers for six hours.
Other than the small souvenir setup around the main cruise berth, most of what you see is there for locals, not tourists. It’s gritty, it’s crowded, it can feel sketchy, and you need to keep your head up. That said, in the main downtown area I did not feel especially unsafe. Like anywhere in the Caribbean, use common sense, do not flash cash or jewelry, and if a street feels off, turn around. The downtown cruise berth is the one within walking distance of the market, museum, craft stalls, and other central Roseau spots, which is exactly why it is the better place to dock.
I wandered around for about two hours before heading back toward the ship, passing the KFC, which is basically a standard landmark in a lot of Caribbean ports and always seems packed. It is also one of those places ship crew members flock to when they are tired of ship food and want something greasy, familiar, and definitely not curry and rice again. Roseau’s KFC has been around since 2006 and still seems to do a brisk business – they even deliver with a fleet of KFC scooters!
Now, is there a beach along the walk from the deep-water port into town? Technically, yes. Would I call it a beach day destination? Absolutely not. There is a stretch of shoreline there, and yes, some people were in the water. Would I get in? No. The sand along parts of Dominica’s coast is dark to nearly black because of the island’s volcanic origin, and it has a much rougher, rawer look than the powdery postcard beach most cruisers probably have in mind. There is no setup, no beach club, and no reason to confuse this with some idyllic Caribbean beach stop. It is more a strip of volcanic shoreline that happens to be there.
So what do you do here if you do not want to wander around downtown and call it a day? Good question.
Top 5 Shore Excursion Picks for Roseau
If you want to do something in Dominica, you absolutely have to take an excursion and this is one of those times I recommend doing it through the cruise line rather than via a local. These would be my top five picks:
- Titou Gorge, Trafalgar Falls, and Champagne Reef – This is probably the best all-around Dominica combo. You get scenery, the waterfall stop, and the volcanic snorkeling angle all in one day.
- Emerald Pool and Rainforest Tour – Emerald Pool is one of the island’s best-known natural sights and a very common cruise excursion.
- Champagne Reef Snorkel – If you want something a little different from the usual beach snorkel, this is one of Dominica’s signature experiences thanks to the bubbling volcanic activity underwater.
- Hot Springs and Wotten Waven Area – Dominica’s geothermal side is a big part of what makes the island different, and this is one of the better ways to experience that without trying to DIY it.
- River Tubing – If you want something active without going full jungle expedition, river tubing is a pretty popular option and a good break from just piling onto another sightseeing bus.
Five Things to Do Without a Ship Excursion
If you do not want to book through the ship and are willing to take a taxi or do a little walking, here are five ideas:
- Walk into downtown Roseau – It’s gritty, crowded, local, and not polished at all, but if you want to see the actual town, this is the move.
- Take a short taxi to the main cruise berth area and market – If you’re docked at the deep-water port, getting dropped at the proper downtown cruise area makes the day a lot easier and gives you access to the market, craft stalls, and the museum area and you avoid the walk.
- Grab a taxi to Trafalgar Falls – One of the better natural sights on the island and much more worthwhile than hanging around the “beach” at the industrial port pretending to have a good time.
- Head to the Botanical Gardens or Emerald Pool area – If you want greenery and scenery, Dominica does that much better than it does cruise port atmosphere.
- Take a taxi to Champagne Reef or another proper water stop – If you want to get in the water, do it somewhere that is actually worth it, not the rough volcanic shoreline along the walk from the port into town.
And yes, if you go the taxi route, just know the drivers right outside the port are going to come at you hard. That is part of the experience whether you asked for it or not.
Back on board, we had an all aboard time of 4:30 p.m., and for once, everyone actually managed to make it back on time. No paging people over the PA, no “please contact Guest Services immediately” announcements, today. Koningsdam pulled away right on schedule at 5:00 p.m.
And while Roseau is not exactly winning any awards from me as a port stop, I will say the views on departure were pretty nice. The island does look good from the water, and as you can see in the photos below, there were some pretty nice scenes as we sailed away.
After a day of wandering around Roseau, I enjoyed some quiet time out on my balcony taking in the sailaway before getting ready for the evening.
First stop was the casino, where I actually had a bit of luck and managed to keep playing for quite a while on some winnings that somehow, shockingly, came my way even though I am usually not lucky at all. But like all good things in a casino, that little run eventually came to an end, and before long my casino bank was reduced to a nice neat row of zeros. That was enough of that.
Next stop was Ocean Bar for a few cocktails before dinner. And the “before dinner” part is very important here.
A lot of times I completely lose track of time. Thankfully, it usually happens on the ship and not when I’m ashore trying to beat all aboard time. And tonight was definitely one of those nights.
One of the regulars at the bar, I’ll call him Bob because Bob is in fact his name, and I got deep into conversation on all kinds of topics. We covered everything from moose knocking trains off the tracks in his part of Canada to Canadian versus U.S. healthcare to the finer points of Canadian whisky. Then along came Linda and Lowell, who twisted my arm into a few more “pre-dinner cocktails.”
After one, maybe two of those, they asked me, “So where did you have dinner tonight?”
I said, “I need to go somewhere before all the restaurants are closed.”
That’s when they very quickly reminded me that it was 9:30.
What???
Here’s what those who did not lose track of time enjoyed at the Lido Market and the Main Dining Room this evening, which carried a Caribbean theme:
Knowing that there was suckling pig on the menu at the Lido Market tonight, I did sneak up early in the evening to get a little bit as who can resist?
On Holland America, the main dining room ends service at 9:00 p.m., the specialty restaurants wrap up at 9:30 p.m., and get this, the Lido Market buffet only serves dinner from 5:30 p.m. until the very early hour of 8:00 p.m. So at this point, my options were not exactly plentiful. Since the late-night snacks at the Lido do not come out until 10:30 to 11:30 p.m., I was basically down to room service or pizza.
🖼️ Menu Images
Now faced with those two choices, and knowing that New York Deli & Pizza on this ship makes some pretty darn good pizza, the decision was easy.
Located up on Deck 10 on the second level of the Lido pool, this spot serves breakfast, lunch, dinner, and late-night bites. At breakfast, it’s actually a great alternative if you want eggs, bacon, sausage, or a breakfast bagel sandwich without dealing with the complete chaos that is often the Lido Market. At lunch and into the evening, things switch over to pizza, with personal-size round pies made to order, along with some really good square slices ready to grab and go. They also have sandwiches, salads, and desserts available through midnight each night. After 8:00 p.m., they add a few more options too, like wings.
I mentioned before that the square slices are what I’d describe as Sicilian-style, with a thicker crust that’s actually baked in the ship’s bakery and brought up throughout the day, where it’s finished off in the ovens here. Those square slices can be excellent when they’re fresh, but if they’ve been sitting out too long, they are worth skipping because they get burnt and way too crispy under the heat lamps.
The round pies, on the other hand, are much more New York style, with a thinner crust that still has some chew to it and is not one of those paper-thin cracker crust situations. You can load them up with whatever toppings you want, and that is exactly what I did. I ordered a pizza with pepperoni, onions, and peppers, and also tried to get some wings. But the wings turned out to be a bust. They told me they did not have any ready and it would be 45 minutes to get some.
So when my pager went off and my pizza was ready, I walked over to the Lido Market and grabbed some wings from there instead, which were… well… skippable.
Back in my room, I had my own little pizza party before calling it a night and reminding myself not to let time get away from me like that again.
We’re currently sailing to our next port of call, Castries, St. Lucia, where we’ll be spending Easter Sunday. So more on that tomorrow, including any Easter activities, whether there was a special menu, and whatever else is worth talking about.
As always, thanks for following along.
Daily Schedule
| 7:00am | Walk a Mile | Grand Dutch Café, 3 |
|---|---|---|
| 7:00am | Abs Class | Fitness Center, 9 |
| 8:00am | Koningsdam Arrives at Roseau | |
| 8:00am | Ask Your Travel Guide (LOCAL) | Pier Ashore |
| 8:00am | Roseau Photo Opportunity until 11:00am (PROMOTION) | Pier Ashore |
| 8:00am | Tai Chi for Everyone | Lido Poolside, 9 |
| 8:00am | RYDE Indoor Cycling $20 | Fitness Center, 9 |
| 8:00am | Pickleball Open Play | Sport Court, 11 |
| 9:00am | Let's Play Ladder Ball | Cornhole Court, 11 |
| 9:30am | Coloring for Adults | Art Studio, 12 |
| 10:00am | Shuffleboard Lucky Shot | Shuffleboard Court, 11 |
| 10:00am | Party Bridge Play until 4:00pm | Hudson Room, 1 |
| 10:00am | Mahjong Players Meet until 4:00pm | Half Moon Room, 1 |
| 10:30am | Modern Calligraphy: Postcard | Art Studio, 12 |
| 11:00am | Footprint and Posture Analysis (PROMOTION) | Fitness Center, 9 |
| 11:00am | Complimentary Massage Sampler (PROMOTION) | Greenhouse Spa, 9 |
| 11:30am | Origami Folding: Frog | Art Studio, 12 |
| 1:00pm | Today's Trivia: Science | Piano Bar, 2 |
| 1:30pm | Basketball Crown: Semifinal Oklahoma v. Baylor | Lido Poolside, 9 & 10 |
| 1:30pm | Basketball Crown: Semifinal Oklahoma v. Baylor | Movies by the Pool |
| 2:30pm | Origami Folding: Frog | Art Studio, 12 |
| 2:30pm | Acupuncture & Chinese Herbal Medicine (PROMOTION) | Greenhouse Spa, 9 |
| 3:00pm | Pickleball Open Play | Sport Court, 11 |
| 3:00pm | Ping Pong Tournament | Lido Balcony, 10 |
| 3:30pm | Creating Doodle Designs: Leaf | Art Studio, 12 |
| 4:00pm | Basketball Crown: Semifinal West Virginia v. Creighton | Lido Poolside, 9 & 10 |
| 4:00pm | Basketball Crown: Semifinal West Virginia v. Creighton | Movies by the Pool |
| 4:00pm | Ask Your Travel Guide (LOCAL) | Travel Guide Desk, 12 |
| 4:00pm | Team Trivia Challenge | Piano Bar, 2 |
| 4:00pm | Around the World Basketball | Sport Court, 11 |
| 4:00pm | Healthy Hair Consultations (PROMOTION) | Greenhouse Spa, 9 |
| 4:30pm | All Aboard as Koningsdam Departs Roseau | |
| 4:30pm | Painting Tropical Bliss on Canva | Art Studio, 12 |
| 4:30pm | Guess the Price of the Artwork | Atrium, 2 |
| 4:30pm | Thomas Kinkade Exhibition | Art Gallery, 1 |
| 4:30pm | Introduction to Iris Photography (PROMOTION) | Photo Gallery, 3 |
| 4:30pm | Vivace String Ensemble | B.B. King's Blues Club |
| 5:00pm | Have Your Casual Portrait Taken (PROMOTION) | Atrium, 2 |
| 5:00pm | Mass is Celebrated | Hudson Room, 1 |
| 5:00pm | Meet the Artist Featuring Comedian Chad Thornsberry | Rolling Stone Lounge, 2 |
| 5:00pm | TRX Suspension Training $20 | Fitness Center, 9 |
| 5:30pm | Caribbean Themed Dinner | Lido Market, 9 |
| 5:30pm | Vivace String Ensemble | B.B. King's Blues Club |
| 6:00pm | Eco-Drive Watch Extravaganza (PROMOTION) | The Shops Deck 2 |
| 6:00pm | Footprint and Posture Analysis (PROMOTION) | Fitness Center, 9 |
| 6:30pm | Game Night: Can We Agree | Rolling Stone Lounge, 2 |
| 6:30pm | Friends of Bill W. Meet | Hudson Room, 1 |
| 6:30pm | Vivace String Ensemble | B.B. King's Blues Club |
| 7:00pm | Billboard Onboard Live Music Trivia | Piano Bar, 2 |
| 7:00pm | Free Liquor Tasting: Amarula (PROMOTION) | The Shops, 3 |
| 7:00pm | Live Music Trivia | Billboard Onboard |
| 7:30pm | Music Trivia: One Hit Wonders | B.B. King's Blues Club, 2 |
| 7:30pm | Tonight's Show: 1000 Steps | World Stage, 2 & 3 |
| 8:00pm | Cruise & Cash Scratch Off Tickets on Sale (PROMOTION) | Casino, 3 |
| 8:00pm | EFFY's In-Store Stagazing (PROMOTION) | Effy Jewelry, 2 |
| 8:00pm | Movies by the Pool: Now You See Me: Now You Don't | Lido Poolside, 9 & 10 |
| 8:00pm | The Best of B.B. King's All-Stars | B.B. King's Blues Club |
| 8:15pm | The 1980s | Billboard Onboard |
| 9:00pm | Tonight's Show: 1000 Steps | World Stage, 2 & 3 |
| 9:00pm | The Best of B.B. King's All-Stars | B.B. King's Blues Club |
| 9:15pm | One-Hit Wonders | Billboard Onboard |
| 10:00pm | The Best of B.B. King's All-Stars | B.B. King's Blues Club |
| 10:15pm | All Requests | Billboard Onboard |
| 10:45pm | It's Karaoke Time! | B.B. King's Blues Club, 2 |
| 11:00pm | Over $617,000 Paradise Lotto Jackpot Drawing | Casino, 3 |