Day 5 on Holland America Line’s Koningsdam brought us to our second port of call, St. Thomas in the U.S. Virgin Islands.
I’ve probably told this story before, but my first visit to St. Thomas was way back in 1994 on my very first cruise, aboard Royal Caribbean’s Sovereign of the Seas. At the time, Sovereign was the largest cruise ship in the world. Today, by cruise ship standards, she would feel tiny. She later left Royal Caribbean in 2008 for Pullmantur and was scrapped in 2020 after the pandemic helped finish off a lot of older, less efficient ships.
That 1994 sailing was an Eastern Caribbean cruise, and I was working at a radio station at the time, leading a group cruise. When we got to St. Thomas, I went ashore, found a phone booth, and called my parents begging them to get me on a flight home. Clearly, at the time, cruising was not for me. That flight never materialized, I got back on the ship, stuck it out, and, well, here we are.
That phone booth used to sit across the street from the Havensight cruise terminal, and while the booth is long gone, the concrete pad where it once stood is still there. Every time I walk by it, I remember making that call.
And that brings me to one of the things I’ve always remembered about St. Thomas: not much has really changed here.
The Havensight area still feels stuck in time. The same tired rows of buildings. The shops selling all kinds of stuff you probably do not need and definitely do not need to drag back home. The businesses have changed over the years, sure. Back in 1994 the building where that phone booth stood was a Burger King. Today it’s a Chinese restaurant. But the overall area still feels old, tired, and not very polished.
For one of the Caribbean’s busiest cruise ports, you would think some of those port taxes over the years would have gone toward modernizing the immediate area or at least improving the sidewalks, crosswalks, and streets to make them a little more pedestrian-friendly. But no.
Where You Dock in St. Thomas Matters
Where your ship docks here matters a lot, because St. Thomas has two main cruise docks: Havensight, also known as the West Indian Company Dock (WICO), and Crown Bay.
Havensight is the busier and more convenient of the two. It has the larger shopping area, easier access to Yacht Haven Grande shopping area (more on that in a minute), Paradise Point is right across the street, and it’s the dock most people would probably choose if the captain asked, “where should we dock today?. Crown Bay has a smaller shopping center and welcome area and is less convenient for most cruisers looking to wander, shop, or grab a taxi and go.
The Weirdest Hampton Inn Location I’ve Ever Seen
There has been one change at Havensight, though, and that is the Hampton Inn right at the port.
This has to be one of the most bizarre Hampton Inn locations in Hampton Inn history. Why build one here? Cruise ships stop for the day. This is not a port of embarkation. It is not exactly the kind of place where vacationers say, “You know where I’ve always wanted to stay? Right by the cruise terminal in St. Thomas.”
One thing the hotel has promoted on social media is the view from its waterfront bar and grill, so while wandering around today, I decided on the way back to the ship to stop in and check it out since they also push the whole “open to the public” angle. I walked into the lobby and asked how to get to the bar. I was told, “Oh, it doesn’t open till 4.”
Well. So much for that.
I don’t really see locals flocking here for those fantastic waterfront views, and with other food and drink options in the area being a little sketchy and sometimes a little iffy in the cleanliness department, I thought a Hilton property might offer something a little different for day visitors. But not if they do not open until nearly dinner time.
RIP to One of the Last Kmarts
While wandering around, I also popped over to the site of what had been one of the very last remaining Kmart stores in the world. Well, not anymore. The St. Thomas Kmart closed in August 2025, and the only real sign it was ever there is the outline of the old sign on the building at Lockhart Gardens. Right now, only the small Miami-area Kmart and one in Guam are still operating.
RIP.
Paradise Point: Still a Nice View, But Now a Pricey One
During my wandering, I also headed over to the Skyride to Paradise Point, which is one of those classic St. Thomas tourist trap stops right by Havensight.
You board the gondola, head up the mountain, get fantastic harbor views, maybe grab a drink, maybe take a few photos, and then ride back down. I’ve recommended it in the past and I’ve done it several times myself. In fact, on that 1994 cruise, it was one of the spots I visited. Paradise Point is indeed right across from Havensight and is one of the closest attractions to that dock.
But since I was last here a few months ago, the price has jumped. Today it was $30 for adults and $20 for children. For a couple, that’s $60. For a family of four, that’s $100 just to ride up, take a few photos, maybe have a beer, and ride back down. And once you add drinks and snacks, the cost climbs fast. So while I get that prices go up, I’m moving this one off my “must do” list and onto my “if you want to” list. It is still a nice view. It’s just gotten a bit too pricey for what it is.
Top 5 Things to Do Near Havensight Without a Taxi
Now, there really is not a ton to do right around Havensight if you are trying to fill a full day entirely on foot, but here are the best easy options if you do not want to deal with a taxi:
1. Paradise Point Skyride – Even though its price increase took it off my “must do” list, for first-timers it’s a maybe. It’s right across from Havensight, the views are great, and it is one of the easiest things to do without needing transportation. I just think it’s gotten expensive for what you get.
2. Wander Havensight – If you want shopping, souvenir hunting, or a cold drink without venturing far, this is where you’ll spend your time.
3. Walk over to Yacht Haven Grande – This is the marina area next door with nicer yachts, a more modern and clean feel, and a better place to wander than some of the drabber stretches around the terminal, but it was surprisingly dead. Most of the shops were closed, only a few of the restaurants were open, and the places that were serving had staff practically begging me to come in for lunch because business was clearly slow. There were plenty of yachts in the marina to gawk at, and if you like strolling around and checking out boats you’ll probably enjoy that part of it, but overall it felt far quieter than it should have been. It’s a nicer area than the port, no question, but on this visit there was nothing happening.
4. Grab a drink or bite and people-watch around the port – Not exciting, but it works. If you do not want to stray far, the immediate port area is perfect for exactly this. Just watch, as some of the restaurants and bars here aren’t exactly what I could call, “sanitary.”
5. Hunt down old St. Thomas landmarks from your own past – Okay, this one is a little personal, but if you’ve been coming here for years like I have, St. Thomas is one of those ports where you can literally walk around and see what changed, what didn’t, and what maybe should have been bulldozed twenty years ago.
Top 5 Shore Excursion in St. Thomas
If you do want to get out and actually do something, this is a port where a shore excursion or taxi ride is an absolute must.
1. Magens Bay Beach – This is the classic St. Thomas beach day and one of the island’s most famous spots. From Havensight, the posted taxi rate as of this visit s $15 per person one way, or $12 each for 2 or more.
2. Sapphire Beach – Another beach option, especially if you want nice water and a different feel from Magens Bay. A taxi will cost you $21 one way for one person or $15 each for 2 or more.
3. Coki Beach / Coral World – Good if you want a beach day plus the option to mix in Coral World. A taxi ride is $18 one way for one person or $14 each for 2 or more.
4. Mountain Top – If you want views instead of a beach, Mountain Top is the classic taxi-and-photo stop. It’s $17 one way for one person or $12 each for 2 or more.
5. Red Hook Ferry Dock for St. John – This is more of a DIY adventure than a standard excursion, but if you want to hop over to St. John, taxis to Red Hook are easy to get right outside the port. They cost $20 one way for one person or $15 each for 2 or more. But, keep in mind this is a ferry ride and if you don’t plan your day correctly, you can miss your ship! Ferries break down, schedules change, all that stuff can add stress if you don’t plan and keep an eye on time.
Back on board, all aboard time today was 4:30 p.m., and like always, not everyone seemed especially committed to that concept. An announcement came over the PA system asking a few guests to call Guest Services and check in, which means one of two things 1) their scan back on the ship didn’t register, or 2) they are still out wandering around. Eventually everyone was accounted for, and Koningsdam pulled away from the berth right on time, actually a few minutes before 5:00 p.m.
As for the sailaway, the views leaving St. Thomas are always great, especially later in the day, and today was no exception. No, it’s not quite as dramatic as sailing out of San Juan in the evening, but it still makes for a pretty darn good departure and some great photos.
Dinner at Rudi’s Sel de Mer, Take Two
When dinner time rolled around, I decided to head back to one of the ship’s specialty restaurants, one I had already visited earlier in the cruise: Rudi’s Sel de Mer. But before getting into that, here’s a look at what was being served tonight in the Lido Market and the main dining room.
Rudi’s is the most expensive specialty restaurant on Holland America Line, coming in at $55 per person plus 18% gratuity, which makes it $3 more than Pinnacle Grill. Unlike Pinnacle, Canaletto, and Tamarind, where 4-Star and above Mariners get 50% off, Rudi’s only gives that tier a 25% discount.
As I mentioned the other night, I had ordered the bone-in strip steak there and it turned out a little tougher than expected, which is highly unusual for Rudi’s because it is usually one of the most reliable meals on the ship. So I figured I’d give it another shot this evening and see if the restaurant could redeem itself.
Once again, my server Najib, who I know from time spent on Rotterdam, took great care of me and pretty much made the dinner decision for me. His recommendation for the evening was the tableside Dover sole, with the duck à l’orange as an appetizer, which comes with a $15 supplement. At that point, I was sold.
🖼️ Menu Images
He also brought out some warm garlic shrimp to go along with the duck. The shrimp were a nice size and came with garlic bread, while the duck turned out to be a full portion, which I honestly was not expecting. It was tender, cooked to a perfect medium, and was actually one of the better duck dishes I’ve had in a while.
Then came the main event.
Najib wheeled over the cart with the Dover sole, did the full tableside deboning, and served it up with a little bit of roe on the side. As expected, it was delicious. Light, flaky, buttery, and exactly the kind of dish that reminds you why Rudi’s can be worth the extra money. So yes, the restaurant definitely redeemed itself after that questionable steak the other night.
After dinner, I met up with cruise friends Linda and Lowell for some gin and tonics across the hall at the Ocean Bar, where Mark has now taken over from Reema on the Rotterdam when it comes to dealing with us and our very specific expectations for how a proper G&T should be made. He has been extremely accommodating, and judging by the look on his face, he may also be reevaluating some life choices.
After a few of those, it was time to call it a night.
We’re currently sailing toward our next port of call, where Koningsdam is scheduled to arrive in St. John’s, Antigua at 8:00 a.m. tomorrow.
More then, and as always, thanks for following along.
Daily Schedule
| Time | Event | Location |
|---|---|---|
| 6:30 AM | The Bow is Open for Scenic Cruising: Weather Dependent | Deck 5 Fwd |
| 7:00 AM | Walk a Mile | Grand Dutch Café, 3 |
| 7:00 AM | Sunrise Stretch | Fitness Center, 9 |
| 8:00 AM | Koningsdam Arrives at Charlotte Amalie | — |
| 8:00 AM | Charlotte Amalie Photo Opportunity until 11:00am | Pier Ashore |
| 8:00 AM | Ask Your Travel Guide | Pier Ashore |
| 8:00 AM | Pickleball Open Play | Sports Court, 11 |
| 8:00 AM | Tai Chi for Everyone | Lido Poolside, 9 |
| 8:00 AM | Body Sculpt Boot Camp $20 | Fitness Center, 9 |
| 9:00 AM | Shuffleboard Lucky Shot | Sports Court, 11 |
| 9:30 AM | Coloring for Adults | Art Studio, 12 |
| 10:00 AM | Party Bridge Play until 4:00pm | Hudson Room, 1 |
| 10:00 AM | Soccer Goal Scoring Competition | Sports Court, 11 |
| 10:30 AM | Modern Calligraphy: Bookmark | Art Studio, 12 |
| 11:00 AM | Footprint and Posture Analysis | Fitness Center, 9 |
| 11:30 AM | Origami Folding: Lovebird | Art Studio, 12 |
| 1:00 PM | Today's Trivia: Movies | Piano Bar, 2 |
| 1:00 PM | Mahjong Players Meet until 4:00pm | Half Moon Room, 1 |
| 2:00 PM | Movies by the Pool: Elio | Lido Poolside, 9 & 10 |
| 2:30 PM | Coloring for Adults | Art Studio, 12 |
| 3:00 PM | Pickleball Open Play | Sports Court, 11 |
| 3:00 PM | Better Sleep, More Energy with Acupuncture | Greenhouse Spa, 9 |
| 3:00 PM | Ping Pong Tournament | Lido Balcony, 10 |
| 3:30 PM | Creating Doodle Designs: Geometry | Art Studio, 12 |
| 3:30 PM | Solo Guitarist Plays | B.B. King’s Blues Club |
| 4:00 PM | Team Trivia Challenge | Piano Bar, 2 |
| 4:00 PM | Let’s Play Ladder Ball | Cornhole Court, 11 |
| 4:00 PM | Ask Your Travel Guide | Travel Guide Desk, 12 |
| 4:15 PM | Non-Surgical Facelift | Greenhouse Spa, 9 |
| 4:30 PM | Introduction to Iris Photography | Photo Gallery, 3 |
| 4:30 PM | Origami Folding: Lovebird | Art Studio, 12 |
| 4:30 PM | All Aboard as Koningsdam Departs Charlotte Amalie | — |
| 4:30 PM | Solo Guitarist Plays | B.B. King’s Blues Club |
| 5:00 PM | Mass is Celebrated | Hudson Room, 1 |
| 5:00 PM | Pure Form Pilates $20 | Fitness Center, 9 |
| 5:00 PM | Guess the Carat Weight of the Gemstone | Effy Jewelry, 2 |
| 5:00 PM | Meet the Artists Ft. Vivace String Ensemble | Rolling Stone Lounge, 2 |
| 5:00 PM | Have Your Casual Portrait Taken | Photo Gallery, 3 |
| 5:30 PM | Michael Goddard Exhibition & Sale | Art Gallery, 1 |
| 6:00 PM | Shopping Q&A with Henriko | Port Shopping, 3 |
| 6:00 PM | Designer Sunglasses: Special Offer | The Shops, 3 |
| 6:00 PM | Shinola Watches: American Made | The Shops, 2 |
| 6:00 PM | Complimentary Massage Sampler | Greenhouse Spa, 9 |
| 6:00 PM | Footprint and Posture Analysis | Fitness Center, 9 |
| 6:30 PM | Friends of Bill W. Meet | Hudson Room, 1 |
| 6:30 PM | Game Night: La La Land | Rolling Stone Lounge, 2 |
| 7:00 PM | Paint Tropical Bliss on Canvas $25 | Art Studio, 12 |
| 7:00 PM | Ladies' Night in the Thermal Suite | Greenhouse Spa, 9 |
| 7:15 PM | The 1960s | Billboard Onboard |
| 7:30 PM | SHOWTIME: Vocalist Mariana Mazu - Sounds Like Love | World Stage, 2 & 3 |
| 7:30 PM | Music Trivia: The 1960s | B.B. King’s Blues Club, 2 |
| 8:00 PM | Movies by the Pool: The Fantastic Four: First Steps | Lido Poolside, 9 & 10 |
| 8:00 PM | Scratch Off Tickets on Sale | Casino, 3 |
| 8:00 PM | Ladies Sip & Save | Effy Jewelry, 2 |
| 8:15 PM | Hot Country | Billboard Onboard |
| 8:15 PM | Sweet Soul Music | B.B. King’s Blues Club |
| 9:00 PM | SHOWTIME: Vocalist Mariana Mazu - Sounds Like Love | World Stage, 2 & 3 |
| 9:00 PM | Rum Tasting $35 | Taste, 2 |
| 9:15 PM | All Requests | Billboard Onboard |
| 9:15 PM | Sweet Soul Music | B.B. King’s Blues Club |
| 10:15 PM | All Requests | Billboard Onboard |
| 10:15 PM | Sweet Soul Music | B.B. King’s Blues Club |
| 11:00 PM | Country Crossroads | Rolling Stone Lounge |
| 11:00 PM | Over $617,000 Paradise Lotto Jackpot Drawing | Casino, 3 |