Day 6 on Queen Elizabeth, and we’re spending the day at a port that’s a favorite for some people and a stay-on-the-ship day for others. No, not Nassau. Today we’re in Bonaire, the B in our ABC cruise, following yesterday’s visit to Curaçao and ahead of tomorrow’s stop in Aruba. Grand Turk was our first stop, before we started working backward through the alphabet.
Why does Bonaire get that mixed reaction from cruisers? A lot depends on what you like doing ashore. If you’re into diving or snorkeling, this is probably one of the stops you’ve been looking forward to most. If you’re expecting a town full of attractions, shopping, and enough things to keep you occupied from breakfast until sailaway, you’re going to be disappointed.
I’m not a diver or snorkeler, so getting me onto one of those excursions isn’t going to happen. My usual routine here is very low key: wander around Kralendijk, sit somewhere along the waterfront, enjoy the views, and appreciate how beautiful the place is without a whole lot of effort.
A Little Bonaire History
Bonaire’s history goes back to when the island was inhabited by the Caquetío people before the Spanish arrived, followed by the Dutch in the 1600s. Salt became an important part of the economy, and the salt industry is still operating today.
If you take a tour toward the southern end of the island, you’ll see the salt pans and large white piles of salt. You’ll also find the small huts used by the slaves who worked in the salt industry.
Today, Bonaire is a special municipality of the Netherlands, a status it’s held since 2010. Unlike neighboring Curaçao and Aruba, it uses the U.S. dollar, which makes things pretty straightforward for us Americans.
The island is known worldwide for its reefs, clear water, and shore diving. A lot of what draws people here is underwater, which is why if you’re not into diving, you may find yourself staying on the ship, or close to the port.
Queen Elizabeth docked around 7 a.m., and we were joined today by Ponant’s Le Bellot. If you’ve visited Bonaire before and been the only ship in town, seeing a second one might come as a surprise.
Bonaire has two cruise piers, but that doesn’t mean the island wants two large ships unloading thousands of passengers at once. The policy generally allows one large cruise ship per day, with an exception for a second, smaller ship carrying fewer than 700 passengers.
Once you get ashore, you’ll quickly see the reason for limiting the crowds. Kralendijk is small, the streets aren’t particularly wide, and the cruise port is right in the town, with homes and local businesses just a couple blocks away. This definitely isn’t a giant cruise complex built for two 6,000 passenger mega-ships to pull up to and unload.
That’s one thing to really appreciate about docking here. You walk off the ship and you’re in Bonaire, you don’t even need to walk through the oblligatory duty free store!
Exploring Kralendijk on Your Own
Because I can’t be the only person visiting without plans to snorkel, I put together my Bonaire cruise port walking tour. It covers eight stops around Kralendijk, with the main sights close enough together that you can walk around without turning the day into an endurance event.
There’s a route map, information about each stop, and a downloadable guide with a QR code that opens the walking route in Google Maps. You can keep the directions on your phone, follow the parts that interest you, and skip anything that doesn’t.
Most of the central stops are within a few blocks of the port, although continuing along the waterfront to the floating pier adds a longer stroll. You can easily spend a couple of hours looking around, or make more of a day of it by adding lunch and time by the water.
The taxi stand is right outside the cruise port on the sidewalk. Confirm the fare, what’s included, and your return arrangements before getting in.
Turning left out of the port takes you toward town, with Fort Oranje one of the first stops. This little yellow fort dates back to the Dutch settlement in the 1600s, although parts of what you see today were rebuilt later.
Now, you aren’t going to spend two hours exploring it. It’s a small historical stop with old cannons and a lighthouse tower, and will take five minutes or less for you to check this off your sightseeing list.
Nearby is Plaza Wilhelmina, where local vendors set up on cruise days selling souvenirs, crafts, and other goods. It’s close enough to the ship that you can browse without to much of a walk, and it’s one of the places I normally check out while passing through.
A little farther along, the Terramar Museum is an option if you want to spend some time learning about Bonaire. But opening days matter, which brings me to something that affected today’s visit.
Sunday in Bonaire: Plenty of Quiet, Less Shopping
Our call fell on a Sunday, and quite a few shops were closed.
Kaya Grandi, the main shopping street, runs about a block inland from the waterfront. On a busier day, it’s a nice place to browse the shops, check out restaurants and cafés, and look down some of the smaller side streets and courtyards.
Today, there wasn’t much happening. There were places open, including the handful of shops directly around the cruise port, but it wasn’t a day for working your way through every store in town.
Even the market at Plaza Wilhelmina had fewer vendors. The whole town was very quiet, which was perfect for a walk but wouldn’t have been if shopping was your main goal.
It’s a good reminder that just because a cruise ship is arriving doesn’t mean every business will open its doors. Something you visited on a Wednesday may be closed on a Sunday or holiday, and museums and other attractions can have limited hours too. If there’s something you absolutely want to do, check ahead rather than planning your entire day around assuming everything is going to be open. This is especially important around holiday sailings. A port call on Christmas Day may find you visiting a town where everything is shut.
The Waterfront and Bonaire’s Floating Pier
The waterfront is the part of Kralendijk I tend to enjoy walking along. You’ve got clear water right along the walkway, boats and catamarans out in the bay, and places where you can stop for lunch or a drink while looking at all of it.
Karel’s Beach Bar is one of the familiar spots, extending out over the water. There are other waterfront restaurants and bars too, so you can find a spot that generally fits your tastes.
Now, just because there’s a beautiful waterfront doesn’t necessarily mean there’s a beautiful beach. Along much of this stretch, the sea comes right up to the seawall or rocky shoreline. You can take some pretty beautiful pictures of the water to make friends back home jealous, but you aren’t going to find a wide strip of sand where you can spread out a towel.
You will see people swimming and snorkeling offshore and there are places along the walkway where you can enter directly from shore.
One of the more interesting stops on my walking route is the floating pier, farther along the boulevard. Think of it as a floating sea-pool setup, giving people a place to access the water without trying to negotiate the rocky shoreline.
There are ramps down to the floating structure and into the water, and it’s used by both locals and visitors. It’s free to use, so if you’ve brought your swimsuit and want to cool off during your walk, this is somewhere to consider. Read the posted rules and take a look at the conditions before getting in.
I recorded a video of the floating pier so you can see how it’s arranged, which I’ll include below. I’m also including my downtown and port-area walkaround from a busier visit, so you can get a better idea of the layout and what town looks like when Sunday hasn’t put quite so much of it on pause.
Is There a Beach Near the Bonaire Cruise Port?
If you turn right out of the cruise port instead of left toward town, there’s a small swim spot very close to the ship. You’ll sometimes find locals, visitors, and crew members taking a dip there.
Calling it a beach requires a little creativity. It’s a small place to get into the water, with steps and a little pier, rather than somewhere offering a long sandy shoreline and rows of loungers. But if you just want a quick swim without going far, it can scratch that itch.
For more of a proper beach day, you’ll want transportation. Te Amo Beach, near the airport, is one of the closer ones with a five to ten minute taxi ride away. Bachelor’s Beach is another option farther south.
Taking the Water Taxi to Klein Bonaire
Another option is Klein Bonaire, the small, uninhabited island you can see offshore. This is where you’ll find No Name Beach, clear water, and the kind of place to visit if you want to true beach day without the craziness a more popular beach may have.
You get there by boat, and water-taxi tickets were being advertised for $25 per person for the round trip during today’s visit. Check the current price and departure details when you book.
As you walk along the waterfront, look around the Karel’s Beach Bar area for water-taxi information and ticket sales. Caribe Watersport operates from Karel’s, while another operator, Epic, uses Bonaire Nautico Marina farther along the boulevard. Make sure you know which company you’ve booked and exactly where your boat leaves, rather than assuming every person selling a ticket is sending you to the same pier.
The trip takes about twenty to thirty minutes, depending conditions. Before leaving, confirm the return times and choose one that gets you back with plenty of room to spare before all aboard.
Klein Bonaire also requires a little preparation. This isn’t a beach club where someone brings you a menu and asks whether you want another drink. Don’t count on shops, restaurants, restrooms, or rental loungers. Bring water, reef-safe sunscreen, and what you need for your time there, then take everything back with you.
If you absolutely need a shaded lounger, a bathroom, and lunch this is NOT the beach for you.
Five Things to Do in Bonaire Beyond Walking Around Town
If a walk around Kralendijk isn’t something you want to do, here are five most popular excursions you can book on your ship or once you’re ashore from a local tour operator:
- Go diving or snorkeling. This is the big draw, with reefs and marine life attracting visitors who come specifically to spend their vacation underwater. Be sure to check the experience requirements and what equipment is included before booking.
- Take the water taxi to Klein Bonaire. The $25 round-trip fare advertised today makes it worth looking at if you don’t need a full guided excursion and want a pretty chill, low-effort beach day.
- Book a beach transfer or beach day. Te Amo is a nearby public-beach option, while Sorobon and Lac Bay offer shallow water and a windsurfing scene. If you book a resort or beach package, check whether chairs, shade, food, and drinks are included. A ride to a beach and a fully equipped beach day aren’t necessarily the same thing.
- Tour the salt pans, historic slave huts, and southern coast. This is a way to see more of Bonaire without getting in the water. Tours usually show the salt-production and historic huts, with opportunities to look for flamingos along the way.
- Visit Rincon and the Cadushy Distillery. Rincon gives you a look at another part of the island, and the distillery produces Bonaire’s cactus liqueur and other spirits. You can work it into an island tour or arrange transportation yourself, but check visiting hours first, particularly on weekends and holidays.
Britannia Restaurant Dinner Menu
For those having dinner in the Britannia Restaurant (MDR) here’s a look at what was being served:
Crispy Hen's Egg
asparagus purée, smoked duck, rocket
Terrine of Ham Hock and Garden Pea
piccalilli relish, toasted brioche
Grilled Ratatouille and Goat's Cheese Salad
pressed tomato vinaigrette
Shrimp Cocktail
brandy cocktail sauce
Broccoli and Potato Soup
blue cheese crumb
Beef Consommé
chive set truffle custard
Classic Caesar Salad
garlic croutons, anchovies, shaved Parmesan
Turkish Style Tomato and Cucumber Salad
Southern Fried Chicken
butter roasted corn kernels, Cajun fries, pineapple ketchup
Medallions of Pork
cauliflower textures, bacon mash, prune jus
Grilled Sea Bass
zucchini, soft polenta, fennel, nori seaweed butter
Garlic and Thyme Panisse
Kalamata tapenade, caramelized onion, roasted chicory
Penne Pasta
chicken, mushroom, spinach, creamy chicken velouté, bacon bits
Grilled Maine Lobster (Half)
$20.0010-14oz, claw mac'n'cheese, garden salad, garlic and herb butter
Grilled Maine Lobster (Whole)
$35.0021-28oz, claw mac'n'cheese, garden salad, garlic and herb butter
Prime USDA Filet Mignon
$35.008oz, triple-cooked chips, grilled asparagus, béarnaise sauce
Half Grilled Maine Lobster and Prime USDA Filet Mignon
$45.0010-14oz lobster and 8oz filet, claw mac'n'cheese, garden salad, garlic and herb butter
Grilled Salmon
lemon pepper seasoning, broccoli, fingerling potatoes
Breaded Chicken Cutlet
buttered greens, crushed red skin potato, drawn garlic butter
Slow-Roasted USDA Striploin
whipped potato, string beans, pan gravy
Dark Chocolate Fondant
chocolate sauce
Vanilla Tofu Cheesecake
strawberry and vanilla salsa
Rose-Scented Pavlova
fresh fruits, jelly, lychees
Ice Cream
mint chocolate chip, rocky road, blackcurrant sorbet, with toffee fudge, chocolate or mixed berry coulis sauce
Selection of Cheese and Biscuits
🖼️ Menu Images
The $140 Wine Dinner at The Verandah
Back onboard, it was time to get ready for an early evening, as tonight was the special wine dinner at Steakhouse at The Verandah. This was a 6:30 p.m. event with a $140-per-person price tag, service charge included.
If you’ve been following along, you’ll remember I attended the $100 Lunch & Learn here on Day 4 and didn’t feel that for many it would deliver enough value for the money. Dinner in the steakhouse normally costs $70 before drinks, so whether these wine events make sense depends on how much you value the food, the wines, and the experience itself. Having a beverage package, like I do, adds another consideration when some of what you’re paying for is more wine that’s included in your package.
After my first meal without a single issue at Bamboo last night, I was hoping we could keep things moving in the right direction.
The menu was created by Executive Chef James Abhilash, with Chief Sommelier Unnikrishnan Plavinal and the onboard wine educator hosting the evening. They introduced themselves and explained how dinner would work before we got started.
With each course, they talked about the accompanying wine, where it came from, the vineyard and winemaker, the tasting notes to look for, and why it had been chosen for that particular dish.
We started with Laurent-Perrier Cuvée Rosé Champagne and some of those Parker House rolls that continue to be dangerously easy to eat. I’ve mentioned them several times already, but they deserve it.
The canapés were aged Parmesan and truffle gougères, little cheese puffs that sounded more exciting than they tasted. They were pretty unremarkable and a little bland. I found myself more interested in the rolls, which probably wasn’t the way things were supposed to go.
The lobster course, however, was delicious. The menu described glazed lobster with tomato ponzu broth, braised kombu, wasabi aioli, red shiso, and caviar. There were thick slices of lobster, plenty of flavor, and a pairing of Domaines Schlumberger “Saering” Grand Cru Riesling from Alsace.
The lobster was very flavorful, the wine worked well with it, and I was beginning to think tonight things may go off without a hitch. Could it possibly happen two nights in a row?
Next came the salad, which was a small arrangement of sesame chicken, baby gem lettuce, shaved Parmesan, herb-and-garlic ciabatta croutons, miso Caesar dressing, and a panko-coated anchovy. This was paired with Cakebread Sauvignon Blanc from California’s North Coast.
That anchovy made its presence known immediately. I took a small bite, and as I’m writing this nearly twenty-four hours later, I’m fairly certain it’s still with me. If you enjoy a strong anchovy flavor, you might have been loved this. I on the other hand, know why I’ve avoided them for 55 years.
For the entrée, we had a choice of Welsh lamb or roasted black cod. I went with the lamb, ordered medium, and this turned out to be an excellent decision.
The official description was a Salt Marsh Rhug Estate Welsh lamb double cutlet with a spiced lamb bonbon, grilled artichoke ratatouille, piquillo pepper, and roasted garlic and rosemary jus. There were two red wines served with the course: Cakebread Cellars Merlot and Shafer One Point Five Cabernet Sauvignon, both from Napa Valley.
The lamb came in thick cuts, was full of flavor, and was cooked exactly as I requested.
May I say this was the best meat dish I’ve had in three visits to the steakhouse? Yes, and by a good margin. This was the kind of main course I’d been hoping to get here from the beginning.
Dessert kept things going with a Cambridge orange and lemon brûlée tart, accompanied by raspberry and Tahitian vanilla-pod rippled ice cream. It was an equally enjoyable way to end the meal, paired with Inniskillin Vidal ice wine from Ontario, Canada.
The ice wine was a nice sweet treat to end on. And if that wasn’t enough, there was white chocolate and pistachio fudge and a chocolate and raspberry truffle as the petits fours, to end the night.
There was certainly no shortage of wine throughout dinner. Some I enjoyed more than others, which is part of the point of trying a selection like this. You get to sample different things, hear the background, and decide what you’d want poured again.
The talks between courses kept the evening moving and gave us something interesting to listen to while we ate and drank. Unfortunately, listening wasn’t on everyone’s agenda.
There were two distractions tonight, and both came from people of advanced ages who should damn well know better!
One table kept talking while the hosts were explaining the wines. A little conversation during dinner is expected, but when someone is addressing the room, it would be nice to let everyone else hear what they’re saying. Other tables gave them the occasional “shhh,” but that didn’t accomplish much. One woman at the table was particularly obnoxious.
Then there was the couple who decided dinner was an appropriate time to take a call on speakerphone. Apparently, paying $140 for a wine dinner also gets you an unsolicited update from somebody else’s friends or family.
I don’t understand why this needs explaining. If you have to take a call, step outside. The rest of the restaurant didn’t answer the phone and doesn’t need to participate.
The crew and restaurant manager didn’t intervene, which left the other guests dealing with the interruptions. I can understand why staff might be reluctant to start a confrontation, especially with someone who could then head straight to Guest Services to complain. But it was frustrating when we were trying to hear the people actually hosting the event, not to mention it’s downright rude to our hosts.
Was the Wine Dinner Worth $140?
After Bamboo last night, I said I’d finally had a dinner on this cruise without anything to nitpick. Tonight’s wine dinner has now moved ahead of that as my best meal of the sailing so far, even though it comes with a hefty price tag.
At the end of the day $140 per person is still $140 per person.
Compared with a Chef’s Table experience I’ve done on Carnival at a similar price point, I felt the value here was in roughly the same territory. You’re getting several courses, a generous amount of wine, and an evening built around the food and pairings.
Having a beverage package also mattered less to me tonight than it did at the lunch. The food gave me more reason to be there.
So, if you enjoy wine, want a special dinner, and the price fits your budget, this is one I’d consider. I’ve questioned the value of several dining experiences on Queen Elizabeth this week, but tonight I left feeling I’d had an enjoyable evening and a very good meal.
The whole event lasted about two hours, so if you’re doing this, plan on skipping out on any entertainment that’s happening in the Royal Court Theatre, as you won’t make the early or late show. So somewhere you’ll need to make a decision – a nice dinner, or a so-so guest entertainer. Sometimes it’s best to let the food win!
We’re currently sailing to our final port of call on this voyage, Aruba. Queen Elizabeth is scheduled to arrive at 7am and we have a full day ashore to do some exploring. So more tomorrow, and as always, thanks for following along.
Queen Elizabeth Day 6 Daily Planner
Click here to download the daily planner as a PDF.
| TIME | EVENT | LOCATION |
|---|---|---|
| 6:00am | Queen Elizabeth Today with Sally Sagoe | Stateroom Television |
| 7:15am | ABS Class | Mareel Wellness & Beauty Fitness Centre, Deck 9, Forward |
| 8:00am | HIIT US$ | Mareel Wellness & Beauty Fitness Centre, Deck 9, Forward |
| 9:00am | Complimentary Massage Tasters | Mareel Wellness & Fitness Centre, Deck 9 |
| 9:00am | Christian Fellowship Gathering | Admiral's Lounge, Deck 10, Forward |
| 9:15am | Cornhole Tournament | Deck 10, Midships (Port) |
| 9:30am | Solo Travellers' Morning Meet Point | Golden Lion Pub, Deck 2, Forward |
| 10:00am | Puffy Eyes Seminar | Mareel Wellness & Beauty Fitness Centre, Deck 9, Forward |
| 10:30am | Morning Team Trivia | Golden Lion Pub, Deck 2, Forward |
| 10:30am | How to Improve Your Posture | Mareel Wellness & Fitness Centre, Deck 9 |
| 11:15am | Shuffleboard Tournament | Deck 10, Aft (Port) |
| 2:00pm | Quick Hit Music Trivia | Lido Pool, Deck 9, Aft |
| 2:00pm | Movie: Carrie | Royal Court Theatre, Decks 1, 2 & 3, Forward |
| 2:00pm | Walk-In Comfort with Goodfeet | Mareel Wellness & Fitness Centre, Deck 9 |
| 2:00pm | Social Card Play & Board Games | Card Room, Deck 3, Grand Lobby (Port) |
| 3:00pm | High Low Darts Tournament | Golden Lion Pub, Deck 2, Forward |
| 3:00pm | Queens Room Afternoon Tea with Saxophonist Chris Malinski | Queens Room, Deck 2 |
| 3:00pm | Advanced Facial Rejuvenation with Dr. Michael M.D. | Mareel Wellness & Deck 9 |
| 3:30pm | How to Do Your Make Up in 5minutes | Mareel Wellness & Fitness Centre, Deck 9 |
| 3:30pm | Guest Meetup: Hobby and Craft Get Together | Commodore Club, Deck 10 |
| 4:00pm | Pilates US$ | Mareel Fitness Centre, Deck 9 |
| 4:30pm | Afternoon Team Trivia | Golden Lion Pub, Deck 2, Forward |
| 4:30pm | Sailaway Celebration with Duo Yalba | Lido Pool, Deck 9, Aft |
| 4:30pm | Complimentary Massage Tasters | Mareel Fitness Centre, Deck 9 |
| 4:30pm | Friends of Bill W. | Admiral's Lounge, Deck 10, Forward |
| 4:45pm | LGBTQIA+ Social Gathering | Commodore Club, Deck 10, Forward |
| 5:00pm | Evening Stretch | Mareel Wellness & Fitness Centre, Deck 9 |
| 5:00pm | Solo Travellers' Evening Meet Point (Unhosted) | Queens Room, Deck 2, Midship |
| 5:00pm | Pick the Lab Diamond | Effy Boutique, Deck 3, Midship |
| 5:15pm | Into the Evening with Pianist David Crathorne | Commodore Club, Deck 10 |
| 5:30pm | Genealogy At Sea: Exotics | Champions 2 & 3, Deck 3, Midship |
| 6:15pm | Recorded Ballroom & Latin Music | Queens Room, Deck 2, Midship |
| 6:15pm | Into the Evening with Saxophonist Chris Malinski | Commodore Club, Deck 10 |
| 6:30pm | Style on Your Wrist: Fashion Watches at exceptional prices | Marketplace, Deck 3 |
| 7:15pm | Wipe Out Trivia | Golden Lion Pub, Deck 2, Forward |
| 7:15pm | Pianist David Crathorne in the Grand Lobby | Grand Lobby, Decks 1, 2 & 3, Midship |
| 7:15pm | Music with Guitarist Brian Moore | Queens Room, Deck 2, Midship |
| 7:30pm | Exclusive Original Collection Showcase | Clarendon Fine Art Gallery, Deck 3, Midship |
| 7:30pm | Guess the Price: Watch Challenge winner reveal | Fine Watches, Deck 3 |
| 8:00pm | Showtime: John Joseph | Royal Court Theatre, Decks 1, 2 & 3, Forward |
| 8:00pm | Recorded Ballroom & Latin Music | Queens Room, Deck 2, Midship |
| 8:00pm | The Art of Glass: Discover Our Wildlife Glassware Collection | Port shop, Deck 3 |
| 8:15pm | New Orleans Trad Jazz with the Queen Elizabeth Orchestra | Golden Lion Pub, Deck 2, Forward |
| 8:30pm | Caribbean Ready: Protect Your Hair with Moroccanoil | Beauty Shop, Deck 3 |
| 8:45pm | Music at the Midships with Pianist David Crathorne | Midships Bar, Deck 3, Grand Lobby |
| 8:45pm | Music & Dancing with the Queens Room Musicians | Queens Room, Deck 2, Midship |
| 8:45pm | Tropical Grooves with Changez | Lido Pool, Deck 9, Aft |
| 9:00pm | Evening Gameshow: Beat the Team | Golden Lion Pub, Deck 2, Forward |
| 9:00pm | Movie: Carrie | Garden Lounge, Deck 9, Midship |
| 9:00pm | A Night at the Commodore with Pianist Daniel McClew | Commodore Club, Deck 10 |
| 9:00pm | Ladies Night Pink Party & Giveaway | Effy Boutique, Deck 3, Midship |
| 9:30pm | Top 40 Hits with DJ Jason | The Yacht Club, Deck 10, Forward |
| 9:45pm | Showtime: John Joseph | Royal Court Theatre, Decks 1, 2 & 3, Forward |
| 9:45pm | New Orleans Trad Jazz with the Queen Elizabeth Orchestra | Golden Lion Pub, Deck 2 |
| 10:30pm | Casino Royale Raffle | Empire Casino, Deck 2, Forward |
| 10:30pm | Dance the Night Away with DJ Jason | The Yacht Club, Deck 10, Forward |
