Day 5 on Queen Elizabeth, and today we’re spending the day in the first of our ABC ports, Willemstad, Curaçao. As I mentioned earlier, we’re doing these backward, so Curaçao comes first, followed by Bonaire and Aruba. We arrived at 8 a.m., with all aboard scheduled for 5:30 p.m., giving us a full day to get out and explore.
This is one of my favorite Caribbean ports, and a big reason is how much you can do without booking anything. Put on a pair of comfortable walking shoes, get off the ship, and you can spend the day wandering the streets, stopping at a restaurant or café, grabbing a beer, and checking out whatever catches your attention. There’s even a nice little cigar shop where you can watch Cuban cigars being rolled in the window, which is always a stop I make to stock up.
Of course, there are excursions through the ship, taxis waiting to take you around, and plenty of ways to spend a day outside town. But if you enjoy exploring on foot like I do, there’s no need to book a bus tour just to have something to do here.
That’s why I put together my DIY Curaçao cruise port walking tour. It’s pretty much the loop I follow whenever I’m here, with ten stops and plenty of opportunities to get distracted along the way. There’s also a downloadable guide with a QR code that opens the route in Google Maps, so you can have the directions right on your phone.
You don’t have to do every stop, either. Pick what interests you, stop when you want, and leave time for lunch (or a cigrar).
Okay, enough of the pitch.
But First… A Little Curaçao History
Curaçao is part of the Kingdom of the Netherlands, and the Dutch influence is pretty obvious once you see Willemstad’s buildings. The Dutch established their settlement here in 1634, and the city developed around the harbor. Its history also includes its role in the transatlantic slave trade, an important part of the island’s past beyond the picture postcard waterfront you see in marketing materials.
You don’t need to know much about architecture to appreciate the place. Walk around for a little while and you’ll understand why so many people leave here with approximately 400 pictures of buildings.
Guilty.
Walking from the Curaçao Cruise Port to Rif Fort
One of the things I like most is that getting into town is easy. From the Mega Pier area, you follow the walkway toward the Renaissance resort and Rif Fort, then continue along the waterfront toward the Queen Emma Bridge. There are shops, kiosks, and places to stop along the way, so the walk itself is part of the visit.
The merchants here are not pushy. You could look around, say hello, or keep walking without someone following you down the path trying to sell you something. It’s a welcome relief to some other Caribbean ports where you feel the pressure from the locals before you even leave the gangway.
There’s a taxi stand near the port if you want to head somewhere farther away. But before getting in remember you’re not back home, you’re a tourist in a foreign country so, always confirm the total fare, the currency, and whether the quote is for your whole group or per person. If you’re arranging a tour rather than a simple ride, agree on the stops, how long you’ll have, and whether wait time is included.
For a beach trip, make sure you sort out the return ride too, as taxis may not be available as easily for the trip back. Get the driver’s contact information and agree on a pickup time that leaves you a comfortable margin before all aboard. By “comfortable” I don’t mean 30-minutes before all aboard. You have to factor in traffic, distance, local road conditions, etc. The last thing you want to do is be stuck waiving to the ship from the pier as your floating hotel just sailed without you and now you’re stuck trying to figure out what to do.
My usual walk takes me through Rif Fort, which dates to the 1820s and once was part of defending the harbor entrance. These days, the walls surround shops, restaurants, and bars, so its role in protection has been replace with revenue generation. Your wallet is now more at risk than the harbor.
It’s worth spending a little time here rather than treating it purely as a way into town. You can look around the old fort, check out the shops, and stop for a drink or something to eat. It’s also a convenient place to pause on the way back, especially if you’ve been walking all afternoon and want to sit down before finishing the trip to the ship.
Once you come out toward the waterfront, you get that familiar view across St. Anna Bay to the colorful buildings along Handelskade. This is the Curaçao photo you’ve seen everywhere, and yes, you’ll probably take it too.
Crossing the Queen Emma Bridge, the “Swinging Old Lady”
To get across the bay, you use the Queen Emma Bridge, better known as the “Swinging Old Lady.” Originally built in 1888, it’s a floating pedestrian bridge connecting Otrobanda, on the cruise port side, with Punda on the other side.
And when they say it swings, they mean it. The bridge moves aside to let vessels enter and leave the harbor, then swings back into place so everyone can continue walking across. It’s really something to watch if you happen to be there when it opens, like I was today. On my way back, it was open for about 45 minutes to let the tanker Gulf Muttrah through.
When the bridge is open, a free ferry carries people across. You can wait or take the ferry, but keep that possibility in mind on your way back. Don’t leave yourself ten minutes to reach the ship as there’s no set schedule for bridge operations and this is a working harbour.
The bridge is also one of the best places to stop for pictures, with views of the waterfront, boats passing through, and both sides of town. Just remember that other people are trying to cross it.
Exploring Punda, the Waterfront, and Pietermaai
Once you’re in Punda, there’s plenty to keep you occupied. The shopping streets around Heerenstraat and Breedestraat have the usual jewelry and souvenir stores, but there are also cafés, restaurants, smaller shops, and side streets worth exploring. You can follow a route, but this is also a place where taking a turn because something looks interesting usually works out pretty well, and it’s completely safe. Again, just note you will occasionally get that solicitation for drugs. Just ignore.
Fort Amsterdam is another stop on my walking loop, near the Punda end of the bridge. It dates to the early Dutch settlement and still houses government functions. It’s worth a look as you pass, although access to the courtyard and buildings can depend on what’s open that day.
A few blocks farther in is Mikvé Israel-Emanuel, the historic synagogue with a sand-covered floor. The building dates back to 1732, and it’s still a place of worship. If you’re interested in visiting, check the opening hours rather than assuming you can wander in whenever your ship arrives. Our call today fell on a Saturday, when regular tourist visits aren’t offered, so this is one to plan around on another visit.
That’s something to remember about any walking guide, including mine. Opening hours for many tourist spots don’t rearrange themselves around cruise schedules, so something that’s normally open on a Wednesday, may be closed on a Saturday. So check schedules online in advance.
Along the waterfront, the Floating Market is another interesting area to look around when the vendors are operating. Boats stock the market daily with fruit, vegetables, and fish sold along the waterfront. You’ll also find the usual selection of t-shirts, and get a glimpse of true local commerce, as this is a market mainly for them, not for the tourists.
If you buy fresh fruit, be sure to eat it ashore rather than planning to bring it back onto the ship. No outside food is allowed back on any cruise ship unless in manufacturer sealed packaging. An unpeeled banana is not considered to be in one of those.
I’ve got a walkthrough video of the floating market for you to check out, and during today’s visit, as seen in the last part of the video, I tried hard not to puke from the smell of the fish one vendor had that he casually swatted flies from. If you’re curious about the market, it’s worth a quick view.
For lunch, you have plenty of choices around Punda, from waterfront views to smaller places on the side streets. You can sit down for a full meal or just stop for a beer and keep going.
The Curaçao and Dushi signs at Wilhelminaplein are on my route too. Yes, they’re tourist photo stops, and yes, you’ll probably want the picture. “Dushi” is a Papiamento word you’ll hear used for things that are sweet, nice, or lovely. It gets a lot of use here, and you’ll see it on plenty of souvenirs if you need help remembering it.
If you still have time and energy, continue into Pietermaai. There are restored buildings, street art, restaurants, and bars, and it gives you another neighborhood to explore beyond the main shopping streets. You could easily spend your remaining time looking around and deciding where to stop.
Just remember that every extra block you walk away from the ship has to be accounted for on the way back. Between the heat, photo stops, and the possibility of the bridge opening, give yourself more time than your phone’s walking estimate suggests. Google Maps doesn’t know you’re going to stop for another beer.
Side note for those interested, the local merchant market is back open after a lengthy refurbishment, and it’s looking much nicer and cleaner than before. There are plenty of local vendors selling souvenirs and other products, including an assortment of “things in bottles” that you can spend some time trying to identify.
There’s also a small food court, where I spotted something that only slightly resembled pizza. Quite a few stalls are still empty, so it doesn’t look like all the spaces have been filled yet, but it’s worth stopping in if you’re looking to pick up a souvenir and browse what the local merchants have to offer.
Top 5 Things to Do in Curaçao Beyond Walking Around Town
Now, if a day walking around town doesn’t appeal to you, there’s plenty elsewhere on the island. Here are five options worth considering, either through an excursion or with your own transportation:
- Spend the day at a beach. Mambo Beach is a popular choice closer to Willemstad, with beach facilities, restaurants, and shops nearby. Farther out, Cas Abao offers a different setting with white sand, clear water, and snorkeling. Check admission, chair rentals, and transportation costs before deciding what’s actually included in your beach day.
- Go snorkeling or diving. Curaçao has plenty to see underwater, and Tugboat is one of the better-known snorkeling spots, with a small wreck close to shore. There are also boat excursions and guided diving trips if you’d rather have someone take care of the arrangements.
- Visit Hato Caves. These limestone caves offer guided tours through chambers with rock formations and pools. It’s an option if you want to see something beyond the waterfront and beaches, but check the walking and stair requirements before booking.
- Tour the Curaçao liqueur distillery at Landhuis Chobolobo. This is where you can learn about the island’s famous liqueur and, depending on the tour, sample it or add a cocktail experience. If you’ve ever ordered something blue and wondered what made it that color, you can work a little education into your drinking.
- Head out toward the west side and Shete Boka National Park. This gets you away from the city to see more of the island. An organized tour makes sense for a day like this, since you’re covering more ground and need to keep the return trip in mind.
Halloween Happenings
All aboard was 5:30 p.m., and back on the ship, there was a Halloween pumpkin-carving contest set up in the Grand Lobby. Crew members from different departments had carved pumpkins that were put on display for guests to choose their three favorites, fill out a ballot, and drop it in the box. Sorry, no “I Voted” stickers were handed out, so you had to participate without being able to advertise it on your shirt afterward. Don’t the British know that the only way to get American’s to vote is to give them a sticker?
Some of the carvings were really impressive, as you can see in the photos and the video walkthrough I recorded. There’s clearly some talent onboard that goes well beyond what everyone does in their regular jobs.
There were a few Halloween-themed events on the schedule, as you can see at the end of this post, but no costume contest, trick-or-treat parade, or anything along those lines. Several guests dressed up anyway, myself included, because it’s Halloween and we’re on vacation. Apparently, that was a bit much for some of our fellow passengers, judging by the looks we got. You’d think we’d crawled out of a grave and interrupted afternoon high tea. Surely the posh among us can survive a few costumes for one night without looking personally offended.
Britannia Restaurant Dinner Menu
For those in having dinner in the Britannia Restaurant (MDR) here’s a look at the dinner menu:
Smoked Potato, Bacon and Cheese Tartiflette
endive salad, truffle dressing
Tequila-Marinated Watermelon
dukkah, green olive, lemon
Cod Brandade
potato, French beans, garlic croutons
Shrimp Cocktail
brandy cocktail sauce
Roasted Pumpkin Soup
Halloween special, roasted pumpkin cranberry cream
Chicken Consommé
barley, vegetables
Classic Caesar Salad
garlic croutons, anchovies, shaved Parmesan
Bulgur Wheat Salad
pomegranate, almonds, edamame, citrus
Traditional Spanish Paella
chicken, prawns, squid, mussels, chorizo
Traditional Roast Turkey
sage and onion stuffing, pigs in blankets, roast potatoes, natural jus
Brioche Herb-Crusted Mahi-Mahi
lemon tarragon butter, green vegetables, buttered new potatoes
Pea and Ricotta Cheese Dumplings
squash, sage, roasted garlic sauce
Spaghetti alle Vongole
clams and spring onions in a white wine cream sauce
Grilled Maine Lobster (Half)
$20.0010-14oz, claw mac'n'cheese, garden salad, garlic and herb butter
Grilled Maine Lobster (Whole)
$35.0021-28oz, claw mac'n'cheese, garden salad, garlic and herb butter
Prime USDA Filet Mignon
$35.008oz, triple-cooked chips, grilled asparagus, béarnaise sauce
Half Grilled Maine Lobster and Prime USDA Filet Mignon
$45.0010-14oz lobster and 8oz filet, claw mac'n'cheese, garden salad, garlic and herb butter
Grilled Salmon
lemon pepper seasoning, broccoli, fingerling potatoes
Breaded Chicken Cutlet
buttered greens, crushed red skin potato, drawn garlic butter
Slow-Roasted USDA Striploin
whipped potato, string beans, pan gravy
Raisin Bread and Butter Pudding
crème anglaise
Haunted Harvest Pumpkin Tart
Halloween special, chocolate crumble, balsamic sauce, marzipan
Chocolate and Banana Delice
banana jam, cocoa nibs, peanut brittle
Ice Cream
pistachio, rum and raisin, fruit sorbet, with toffee fudge, chocolate or mixed berry coulis sauce
Selection of Cheese and Biscuits
🖼️ Menu Images
Dinner at Bamboo on Queen Elizabeth
Dinner tonight was at Bamboo, the second of the three specialty dining pop-ups held in a section of the Lido buffet on Deck 9. I’d already tried the Italian option, La Piazza, on night three, and still have the Caribbean-themed Karibe booked for later in the cruise. Tonight, it was time to see what Bamboo’s Asian-inspired menu had to offer.
Kataifi Shrimp
tamarind sauce
Smoked Tuna Tataki
sesame seed and coriander crust, chilli lime sauce
Yakitori Chicken
harusame salad
Balsamic Sweet and Sour Beef Short Ribs
wasabi potato purée
Enokitake and Vegetable Stir-fry
pistachios, pine nuts, plum sauce
Mandarin Crispy Chilli Beef
shiitake, bok choy, broccoli, egg fried rice
Pan-seared Japanese-style Black Cod
chilli orange noodles, ginseng honey, black sesame vinaigrette
Malaysian Sambal Roast Chicken
nasi goreng, sweet chilli tomato chutney, peanut sauce
Miso-glazed Tofu and Stir-fried Lotus Root
bok choy, edamame egg fried rice, Szechuan pepper
Signature Platter
sesame prawn toast, Californian vegetable maki rolls, prawn shumai dumpling, steamed king scallop with spiced seafood sauce, soft shell crab with Thai basil, Szechuan pepper and sweet chilli sauce
Trio of Desserts
sticky rice with diced mango and coconut ice cream, calamansi lime and chocolate ganache with chai tea semifreddo and cocoa nibs, green tea sponge cake with banana jam and black sesame crumble
🖼️ Menu Images
On this sailing, each pop-up is running for three consecutive nights, although that schedule can vary depending on the voyage. Each costs $40 per person plus gratuity, which gets you three courses: an appetizer, an entrée, and dessert.
After a few gin and tonics at the Midships Gin & Fizz bar, I headed up for my 8 p.m. reservation. Only a few tables were occupied, and I had the same service team that looked after me at La Piazza. Considering how well they took care of me there, that was a good sign.
Everyone starts with a bento box containing a selection of appetizers, so there’s no need to debate which one to order or how much another starter is going to add to the bill. You get a little of everything, and there’s quite a bit going on in that box.
There was kataifi shrimp with tamarind sauce, smoked tuna tataki with a sesame and coriander crust and chili-lime sauce, and yakitori chicken with a harusame noodle salad. Then there were balsamic sweet-and-sour beef short ribs with wasabi mashed potatoes, plus an enoki mushroom and vegetable stir-fry with pistachios, pine nuts, and plum sauce.
That’s a good start to dinner, and every item was delicious. There was enough variety to keep it interesting, and nothing felt like it had been added just to fill space on the plate.
For my main course, I chose the Mandarin Crispy Chilli Beef, served with shiitake mushrooms, bok choy, broccoli, and egg fried rice. Another solid choice. The portion was good, there was plenty of flavor, and, importantly after last night’s experience in Britannia, it arrived hot.
I know, getting a hot dinner shouldn’t be something worth celebrating, but after cold arancini, room-temperature chicken, and cold sides last night, I appreciated being able to eat this one at the temperature it was intended to be served.
The beef and rice made for a satisfying main course, and between that and the bento box, there wasn’t any chance about leaving hungry. I was actually enjoying dinner tonight.
Dessert was another trio, starting with sticky rice, sliced mango, and coconut ice cream. That was joined by calamansi lime and chocolate ganache with chai tea semifreddo and cocoa nibs, plus green tea sponge cake with banana jam and black sesame crumble.
It was a good finish to a meal that had been consistently enjoyable from the first course onward.
Service was excellent once again. Having the same team from La Piazza meant I already knew I was in good hands, and they continued to do a great job tonight. The difference was that this time, I could give the food the same kind of praise.
I’ve been critical of dining on Queen Elizabeth so far, and I stand by those comments. But when a meal goes well, that deserves just as much attention. Tonight, the starter was delicious, the main course was flavorful and served hot, the portions were good, and dessert rounded things out nicely.
I’ve questioned the pricing of these pop-ups, and one good dinner doesn’t erase that discussion. But judging tonight’s meal on what arrived at the table, Bamboo was a hit. For the first time this cruise, I finished dinner without anything I felt the need to nitpick. It took until night five, but we got there.
After dinner, I popped into the Commodore Club for a nightcap. The lounge was crowded, with hardly an available seat while the pianist entertained, but the bar itself was completely empty. Well, except for me. The bartenders and servers weren’t particularly busy either, because from what I could see, hardly anyone was ordering drinks. Apparently, everyone had come for the music, and I was there to keep the beverage department company.
It was a very subdued crowd, and the playlist leaned a little melancholy, which I suppose works when you’re winding down for the evening. If you wanted something livelier, the Yacht Club across the hall had a DJ, but the place was empty. So your choices were a full lounge quietly listening to piano music or a dance floor you could have entirely to yourself. I stayed at the bar, enjoyed a few cocktails with the music, and eventually called it a night.
We’re now sailing toward our next port, Kralendijk, Bonaire, where Queen Elizabeth is scheduled to arrive at 7 a.m. More from there tomorrow, and as always, thanks for following along!
Queen Elizabeth Day 5 Daily Planner
Click here to download the daily planner as a PDF.
| TIME | EVENT | LOCATION |
|---|---|---|
| 6:00 am | Queen Elizabeth Today with Scary Sagoe | Stateroom Television |
| 7:15 am | Abs Class | Mareel Wellness & Beauty Fitness Centre, Deck 9, Forward |
| 8:00 am | Spinning $ | Mareel Wellness & Beauty Fitness Centre, Deck 9, Forward |
| 9:00 am | Christian Fellowship Gathering | Admiral's Lounge, Deck 10, Forward |
| 9:15 am | Ping Pong Tournament* | Games Deck, Deck 11, Forward |
| 9:30 am | Solo Travellers' Morning Meet Point | Golden Lion Pub, Deck 2, Forward |
| 10:00 am | Free Footprint Clinic | Mareel Wellness & Beauty Fitness Centre, Deck 9 |
| 10:30 am | Morning Team Trivia | Golden Lion Pub, Deck 2, Forward |
| 11:00 am | How to Increase Your Metabolism | Mareel Wellness & Beauty Fitness, Deck 9 |
| 11:15 am | Table Tennis Tournament* | Deck 9, Forward (Port) |
| 1:00 pm | Puffy Eyes | Mareel Wellness & Beauty Fitness Centre |
| 2:00 pm | Stop The Clock | Lido Pool, Deck 9, Aft |
| 2:00 pm | Movie: Sinners | Royal Court Theatre, Decks 1, 2 & 3, Forward |
| 2:00 pm | Walk In Comfort with Goodfeet | Mareel Wellness & Beauty Fitness Centre |
| 2:00 pm | Social Card Play & Board Games | Card Room, Deck 3, Grand Lobby (Port) |
| 2:30 pm | 10-minute Face Lift Dr Michael | Mareel Wellness & Beauty Fitness, Deck 9 |
| 3:00 pm | Killer Darts Tournament* | Golden Lion Pub, Deck 2, Forward |
| 3:00 pm | Queens Room Afternoon Tea with Guitarist Brian Moore | Queens Room, Deck 2 |
| 3:00 pm | The healing benefits of Acupuncture Dr Ajit | Mareel Wellness & Fitness, Deck 9 |
| 3:30 pm | Guest Meetup: Hobby and Craft Get Together | Commodore Club, Deck 10 |
| 3:30 pm | Guess the Stone | Effy Boutique, Deck 3 |
| 4:00 pm | Pilates $ | Mareel Wellness & Beauty Fitness Centre, Deck 9, Forward |
| 4:30 pm | Afternoon Team Trivia | Golden Lion Pub, Deck 2, Forward |
| 4:30 pm | Friends of Bill W. | Admiral's Lounge, Deck 10, Forward |
| 4:45 pm | LGBTQIA+ Social Gathering | Commodore Club, Deck 10, Forward |
| 5:00 pm | Evening Stretch | Mareel Wellness & Beauty Fitness Centre, Deck 9, Forward |
| 5:00 pm | Solo Travellers Evening Meet Point (Unhosted) | Queens Room, Deck 2, Midship |
| 5:15 pm | Into the Evening with Pianist David Crathorne | Commodore Club, Deck 10 |
| 5:30 pm | Sailaway Celebration with Will & Sarah | Lido Pool, Deck 9, Aft |
| 6:15 pm | Recorded Ballroom & Latin Music | Queens Room, Deck 2, Midship |
| 6:15 pm | Into the Evening with Saxophonist Chris Malinski | Commodore Club, Deck 10 Forward |
| 6:45 pm | Create your own cruise keepsake: IOG | Marketplace, Deck 3 |
| 7:15 pm | Wipe Out Trivia | Golden Lion Pub, Deck 2, Forward |
| 7:15 pm | Pianist David Crathorne in the Grand Lobby | Grand Lobby, Decks 1, 2 & 3 |
| 7:15 pm | Hosted Ballroom Dancing | Queens Room, Deck 2, Midship |
| 7:15 pm | Caribbean Glow: Summer Skincare with Clarins | Beauty store, Deck 3 |
| 8:00 pm | Showtime: Duo Yalba | Royal Court Theatre, Decks 1, 2 & 3, Forward |
| 8:00 pm | Recorded Ballroom & Latin Music | Queens Room, Deck 2, Midship |
| 8:00 pm | The Macallan Story: A Journey Through Whisky Heritage | Liquor shop, Deck 3 |
| 8:15 pm | Golden Lion Live with the Watson Duo | Golden Lion Pub, Deck 2, Forward |
| 8:30 pm | Recorded Ballroom & Latin Music | The Yacht Club, Deck 10, Forward |
| 8:30 pm | Accessible Luxury: The World of Frederique Constant | Fine Watches boutique |
| 8:45 pm | Music at the Midships with Pianist David Crathorne | Midships Bar, Deck 3 |
| 8:45 pm | Moonlight Melodies with DJ Sax Chris Malinski | Lido Pool, Deck 9, Aft |
| 8:45 pm | Halloween Party with Changez | Queens Room, Deck 2, Midship |
| 9:00 pm | A Spooky Halloween Performance by the Royal Court Theatre Cast | Queens Room |
| 9:00 pm | Terrifying Gameshow: Halloween | Golden Lion Pub, Deck 2, Forward |
| 9:00 pm | Movie: Sinners | Garden Lounge, Deck 9, Midships |
| 9:00 pm | A Night at the Commodore with Pianist Daniel McClew | Commodore Club, Deck 10 |
| 9:00 pm | Ladies Night Pink Party & Giveaway | EFFY Boutique, Deck 3 |
| 9:30 pm | Saturday Night Spooky Hits with DJ Jason | The Yacht Club, Deck 10, Forward |
| 9:45 pm | Showtime: Duo Yalba | Royal Court Theatre, Decks 1, 2 & 3, Forward |
| 9:45 pm | Golden Lion Live with the Watson Duo | Golden Lion Pub, Deck 2, Forward |
| 10:30 pm | A Spooky Halloween Performance by Dance Couple Debbie & Nico | Queens Room |
| 10:30 pm | Casino Rollover Raffle | Empire Casino, Deck 2, Forward |
| 10:30 pm | Dance the Night Away with DJ Jason | The Yacht Club, Deck 10, Forward |
