Good morning from San Juan, Puerto Rico, one of those cruise ports I’m always happy to see on an itinerary.
Yesterday in Puerto Plata was a good reminder of why the actual experience in a port can make or break a port day. I like Puerto Plata and still prefer docking at Taino Bay over being isolated out at Amber Cove, but the nonstop parade of people trying to become my personal tour guide got old very quickly. Today was pretty much the complete opposite.
Outside of the ABC islands, San Juan is one of my favorite Caribbean ports. Old San Juan is right outside the cruise terminal, the historic district is incredibly easy to explore on your own, there are plenty of places to eat and drink, and you don’t need to spend half the day sitting on a bus to see something interesting. Even better, MSC World America wasn’t leaving until 11:00 p.m., which meant there was no reason to rush through the day.
That late departure completely changes things from say, a cruise where you have to be back on board at 3:30pm. You can head ashore in the morning, wander around for a few hours, come back to the ship to cool off or take a break, then go right back out for dinner and drinks. San Juan is one of those ports that gets even better after dark, so having enough time to experience both the daytime and nighttime versions of the city is a big plus.

MSC World America arrived around 9:00 a.m., and the gangway opened for passengers at about 8:50. At first, we were the only ship in port, but that didn’t last long because Carnival Magic was on her way in and would be docking directly across from us.
Dr. E, our overly enthusiastic cruise director, made an announcement that if you wanted to get off immediately, you should probably do it because the gangways were going to close at 9:30 for about 20 minutes while Carnival Magic maneuvered into position. That timing ended up being almost exactly right. At 9:30, the gangways closed, Carnival Magic came in, and about 20 minutes later everyone was moving again.
We also had a few on-and-off showers during the morning, which is pretty standard for San Juan. They never turned into anything serious, but the rain did make one thing worth remembering even more important – those famous blue cobblestones get slippery as hell when they’re wet.

The original cobblestones date back to the late 1800s and were made from iron slag, a byproduct of iron smelting, before being shipped over from England and used to pave the city’s streets.
Over the years, weather, traffic, and plain old wear and tear gave the stones that distinctive blue-gray color. Not every stone you see today is an original because plenty have been replaced during utility work and road repairs, but some of the older ones are still easy to spot because they’re more irregular, more worn, and often darker.
They’re also smooth.
Very smooth.
Add rain, and you’ve basically got a historic slip-and-slide running through the middle of the city, which is why I keep telling people to wear decent shoes.
No Shore Excursion? No Problem!
One of the things I like most about San Juan is that you can walk off the ship and immediately start exploring. There’s no long ride into town, no need to hire a taxi, and no reason to book a city tour unless you have mobility issues or specifically want to get outside Old San Juan.
I put together a full Old San Juan walking tour during one of my previous MSC World America cruises, and it remains the route I’d recommend for anyone visiting for the first time. It starts near the cruise port, heads along the waterfront through Paseo de la Princesa and Paseo del Morro, climbs toward Castillo San Felipe del Morro, then winds back through the historic district past plazas, churches, museums, and some of the colorful streets everyone comes here to photograph.
Along the way, you can hit the Raíces Fountain, El Morro, Plaza de la Rogativa, Museo Casa Blanca, Museo de las Américas, Catedral de San Juan, Plaza San José, and Plaza Colón. If you’re in the mood for something a little less historic and a lot more ridiculous, there’s also Parque de las Palomas, better known as Pigeon Park.

The entire walking route can take four or five hours if you actually stop and explore, but that’s the beauty of doing it on your own. Want to spend an hour at El Morro? Spend an hour. Want to stop for a beer? Stop. Want to sit in a plaza and do absolutely nothing for 30 minutes? Nobody is standing there holding a little paddle and telling you the tour bus leaves in three minutes.
The only real warning I give people is that “walkable” does not mean “flat.” Old San Juan has hills, steep streets, uneven sidewalks, and narrow walkways. Good shoes matter here, especially if you’re planning to spend several hours wandering around.
Parque de las Palomas
One of the stops on my walking tour is Parque de las Palomas, or Pigeon Park, which is only a few minutes from the cruise port and is one of those quirky little places that’s easy to work into your day.
The site actually has some legitimate history behind it. The area formed part of Old San Juan’s defensive system and was once associated with the city’s old cannon positions. Today, the cannons are gone and the pigeons have apparently won the war.
For $2, you can buy a small bag of approved bird feed from the booth inside the park. You’re not allowed to show up with your own bag of seed and start feeding birds wherever you want around Old San Juan, so feeding is controlled here using the food sold on site.
Once you open that bag, every pigeon within a five-block radius seems to know what’s happening. They’ll eat out of your hand, gather around your feet, and if you’re willing, land on your arms, shoulders, head, or pretty much anywhere else they can find room.
If you’re afraid of birds, keep walking.
If not, it’s a fun two-dollar stop and certainly cheaper than most things you’re going to do in a cruise port.
Puerto Rico was still dealing with water restrictions during our visit, something I had written about before this cruise. From the perspective of a cruise passenger spending the day in Old San Juan, though, you would never have known there was an issue.
Restaurants and bars were open, public restrooms were operating normally, and I didn’t encounter any obvious interruptions anywhere I went. One reason the historic district tends to handle water disruptions better is that many hotels, restaurants, and commercial buildings have cisterns that hold backup water for things like toilets, sinks, kitchens, and other basic operations.
That doesn’t mean the larger water situation on the island isn’t serious. It simply means that cruisers visiting Old San Juan may not notice much of an impact, especially in the tourism-heavy parts of the city where businesses are better prepared to deal with interruptions.
MSC’s Mid-Cruise Survey
Sometime during the morning, MSC sent me a mid-cruise survey asking me to rate the cruise so far on a scale of zero to 10. After the initial rating, there was space to provide more detailed feedback and mention anything that hadn’t gone particularly well.
Most cruise lines wait until you’re home before sending the inevitable “How did we do?” email, which is useful for collecting data but doesn’t do much for the passenger who had a problem on the actual cruise. MSC asking halfway through at least creates the possibility that someone onboard could see the feedback and do something about it while there’s still time left in the trip.
The big question, of course, is whether that actually happens. I have no idea if someone onboard is actively reviewing these responses, matching them to guests, and reaching out to fix issues, or if the information just disappears into a giant corporate database until someone looks at a spreadsheet a month later.
If MSC really is using these surveys in real time, then I like the idea. Fixing a problem on Day 4 is a lot more useful than sending someone an apology after they’ve already gone home and decided they’re never sailing with you again.
Dinner in Old San Juan
With an 11:00 p.m. departure, I had no intention of eating dinner on the ship. The main dining room and Yacht Club Restaurant were serving Caribbean-themed menus tonight, but one of the biggest advantages of a late San Juan stay is getting to eat ashore without watching the clock.
My first choice was Sophia’s, an Italian restaurant about a 10-minute walk from the port that had very good reviews and a 4.7 rating on OpenTable. Google said it was open, so off I went.
It wasn’t open.
The metal gates were down over the doors, which settled that pretty quickly.
From there, I walked over to Marmalade, where I had a very good and very expensive dinner on a previous visit. That meal ran more than $200, so I already knew what I was getting into. I looked through the window and didn’t see a single person inside, and while the restaurant was technically open, I really didn’t feel like being the only person sitting in there having dinner.
Next.
I thought about going back to Princesa Cocina Cultura, where I ate during another San Juan visit, but then I remembered something else.
Señor Frog’s was gone and someone else moved in.
Yes, that Señor Frog’s, the legendary cruise-port tourist trap where the basic business model always seemed to revolve around getting passengers drunk enough to forget what ship they came off.
The space is now Ocean Lab Brewing Company.
Ocean Lab is a family-owned Puerto Rican craft brewery founded in 2017 in Isla Verde, and the Old San Juan location opened in the former Señor Frog’s space earlier this year. It has a large dining room and bar, but before you reach any of that, you first get funneled through the gift shop.
Think Disney.
Before you get the beer, here’s your opportunity to buy the shirt.
The restaurant wasn’t particularly busy when I arrived around 8:00 p.m., so I grabbed a seat at the bar and started with one of their beers and an order of manchego croquettes. The menu is a mix of familiar bar food and Puerto Rican dishes, and since I was in Puerto Rico, I decided it was time to give kan kan pork another chance.

If you’ve never had kan kan pork, picture a giant bone-in pork chop that includes the loin, belly, skin, and a glorious ring of fat curling around the outside. When it’s cooked properly, you get tender pork, crispy skin, and plenty of flavor.
This was my third attempt.
I had one at Kueros that wasn’t bad. I had another at Princesa Cocina Cultura that was absolutely terrible.
Third time’s the charm, right?
This time it actually was.
The chop at Ocean Lab was large, tender, and properly cooked, with crispy skin and none of the dried-out toughness I’d run into before. The rice and beans on the side were also excellent, and for the first time I finally understood why people get excited about this dish.

By the time I was finished, I had the croquettes, the pork chop, three beers, and the tip, and I was still out the door for under $100.
Would I call Ocean Lab a destination dinner restaurant? Probably not. It feels much more like a place I’d recommend for lunch, a few beers, and something casual to eat while walking around Old San Juan. They have burgers, tacos, and other bar-food items, and I’m told the brisket sandwich is excellent.
As a convenient place to grab a good beer and a bite within walking distance of the cruise port, though, it worked out very well.
After dinner, I planned to wander around Old San Juan for a little while longer before heading back to the ship. That lasted until I felt the first drizzle and then got an alert on my phone telling me moderate rain was about to start and continue for the next half hour.
Message received.
I grabbed one last photo of MSC World America lit up at the pier and headed back onboard. Once I was on the ship, the rain really settled in, so the sailaway was basically a washout.

That was disappointing because evening departures from San Juan are usually beautiful. Sailing away with the city lit up behind you and El Morro along the shoreline is one of those cruise moments I never really get tired of.
Tonight, Mother Nature had other ideas.
So instead of hanging outside for sailaway, I had a glass of bubbly and called it a night. After spending most of the day walking around Old San Juan, eating a giant pork chop, and drinking three beers, that wasn’t exactly the worst ending imaginable.
At the end of the day it’s easy to see why San Juan remains one of my favorite Caribbean cruise ports.. We had nearly 14 hours in port, I never felt rushed, I could walk almost everywhere I wanted to go, and there was enough time to explore during the day, head back out for dinner, and still have hours before sailaway.
I also continue to think San Juan is one of the easiest places for cruisers to skip the organized shore excursion and explore independently. If you can handle the hills and uneven streets, Old San Juan is sitting right there outside the terminal waiting for you, and you can build the day around whatever interests you instead of someone else’s schedule.
We’re spending the next two days at sea as we head to our final stop on this cruise, MSC’s private island in The Bahamas, Ocean Cay Marine Reserve.
More tomorrow!
MSC World America Daily Planner – Day 4
Also available as a PDF by clicking here.
| TIME | EVENT | LOCATION |
|---|---|---|
| 12:15 am | Dueling Pianos (18+) | The Loft Deck 8 Mid |
| 01:00 am | Curfew for unaccompanied minors 17 & under | |
| 06:00 am | MSC Today | TV Channel 2 |
| 07:15 am | Wellness: Sound Healing Meditation | World Promenade Deck 8 Aft |
| 07:30 am | Sunrise Stretch | MSC Gym Deck 20 Mid |
| 07:45 am | Wellness: Vinyasa Yoga | World Promenade Deck 8 Aft |
| 08:00 am | Core-Abs | MSC Gym Deck 20 Mid |
| 08:00 am | Free Express Personal training | MSC Gym Deck 20 Mid |
| 08:30 am | Wellness: Pilates | World Promenade Deck 8 Aft |
| 08:30 am | Sports: Pickleball Open Play (16+) | MSC Sportsplex Deck 20 Mid |
| 08:30 am | Board Games: Free Play | Elixir Bar Deck 8 Mid |
| 09:00 am | Arts&Crafts: T-Shirt Creations | Dolce Vita Bar Deck 6 Mid |
| 09:00 am | Gangway Goodies | Gangway |
| 09:00 am | Acupuncture Masterclass: Back Pain and Relief | MSC Aurea Spa Deck 8 Fwd |
| 09:00 am | Free Foot and Posture Analysis | MSC Gym Deck 20 Mid |
| 09:15 am | Free Tanzanite Studs Voucher with Mick | Port Shopping Desk Deck 6 Mid |
| 09:15 am | San Juan VIP Shopping Party Meetup with Mick | Port Shopping Desk Deck 6 Mid |
| 10:00 am | Sports: Kwik Cricket | MSC Sportsplex Deck 20 Mid |
| 10:00 am | FREE Ladies Spa Party with Acupuncture | MSC Aurea Spa Deck 8 Fwd |
| 10:00 am | Free Skin & Hair Consultation | MSC Aurea Spa Deck 8 Fwd |
| 02:30 pm | Guess the Song: Classic Rock | Dolce Vita Bar Deck 6 Mid |
| 02:30 pm | Sports: Basketball Open Play (Unhosted) | MSC Sportsplex Deck 20 Mid |
| 03:00 pm | Quiz O' Clock | Dolce Vita Bar Deck 6 Mid |
| 03:30 pm | Game: Guess the Word | Dolce Vita Bar Deck 6 Mid |
| 04:00 pm | Guess the Song: Divas | Dolce Vita Bar Deck 6 Mid |
| 04:00 pm | Ping Pong Tournament (16+) | Botanic Garden Deck 18 Mid |
| 04:00 pm | Friends of Bill W (unhosted) | Business Center 2 Deck 6 Fwd |
| 04:30 pm | Quiz O' Clock | Dolce Vita Bar Deck 6 Mid |
| 05:00 pm | #MSCkids: Drone Academy | MSC Sportsplex Deck 20 Mid |
| 05:30 pm | Sunset Stretch | MSC Gym Deck 20 Mid |
| 05:30 pm | DJ Sunset Vibes | Mar Azul Deck 18 Mid |
| 06:00 pm | #MSCTeens: Drone Academy | MSC Sportsplex Deck 20 Mid |
| 06:00 pm | Solo Travellers Get Together | Champagne Bar Deck 8 Mid |
| 06:45 pm | Live music with Trio Sunset & Royal Flush Band | Dolce Vita Bar Deck 6 Mid |
| 07:15 pm | Live music with Chris J Clarke & AJ Duo | Masters Of The Sea Deck 7 Mid |
| 07:30 pm | Dance Class: Merengue in Couple | Dolce Vita Bar Deck 6 Mid |
| 07:30 pm | Comedy Showtime (PG) | World Theatre Deck 7 Fwd |
| 08:00 pm | Show: Theatrical Deceptions - Reed Masterson | Panorama Lounge Deck 7 Aft |
| 08:00 pm | #MSCkids: Lucky Box | The Studio Deck 19 Mid |
| 08:00 pm | DJ Music Vibes | Elixir Bar Deck 8 Mid |
| 08:15 pm | Palm Tree Show | World Promenade Deck 8 Aft |
| 08:15 pm | Shuffle Board Tournament | All-Stars Sports Bar Deck 8 Aft |
| 08:30 pm | Be a Karaoke Superstar! (18+) | The Loft Deck 8 Mid |
| 09:00 pm | LGBTQAI+ Get Together | Elixir Bar Deck 8 Mid |
| 09:00 pm | #MSCkids Doremi Family Cinema | The Studio Deck 19 Mid |
| 09:15 pm | Palm Tree Show | World Promenade Deck 8 Aft |
| 09:30 pm | Gameshow: Love and Marriage with Dr. E (PG-13) | World Theatre Deck 7 Fwd |
| 09:30 pm | Live music with Trio Express | Mar Azul Deck 18 Mid |
| 10:00 pm | Palm Tree Show | World Promenade Deck 8 Aft |
| 10:00 pm | Dance Class: Bachata in Couple | Mar Azul Deck 18 Mid |
| 10:00 pm | Show: Theatrical Deceptions - Reed Masterson | Panorama Lounge Deck 7 Aft |
| 10:00 pm | Movie: Silent Disco: Headphones Distribution | MSC Luna Park Deck 6 Fwd |
| 10:15 pm | Dueling Pianos (18+) | The Loft Deck 8 Mid |
| 10:15 pm | Apres - Silent Disco | MSC Luna Park Deck 6 Fwd |
| 10:30 pm | #MSCkids: Doremi Numbers Game | The Studio Deck 19 Mid |
| 10:30 pm | Latin Night with Trio Express | Mar Azul Deck 18 Mid |
| 10:45 pm | Night Club After Dark with DJ (18+) | Panorama Lounge Deck 7 Aft |
| 11:00 pm | Tribute to Rock with Royal Flush Band | Dolce Vita Bar Deck 6 Mid |
| 11:15 pm | #MSCTeens: Boxes | The Studio Deck 19 Mid |
| 11:15 pm | Dueling Pianos (18+) | The Loft Deck 8 Mid |



















