We’re officially in the homestretch of this eight-day MerMaiden Voyage aboard Virgin Voyages’ newest and fourth ship, Brilliant Lady. Hard to believe it’s flying by this fast!
This cruise is definitely what you’d call a “sea day special,” with more time floating than docking. Out of the eight days onboard, only three include ports of call. Yesterday we explored St. Maarten (you can read all about that adventure in my Day 4 report), today we’re in Tortola, and on Friday we’ll wrap things up with a visit to Virgin’s private resort — the Bimini Beach Club in the Bahamas.
So, where are we today? We’ve dropped anchor (well, docked, technically) in Tortola, the largest of the British Virgin Islands and a place I haven’t been to in well over fifteen years. Not a lot of cruise lines make Tortola a regular stop these days.
Brilliant Lady pulled into port right around 8 a.m., docking at the Cyril B. Romney Pier Park, which is where most ships tie up when visiting. The pier itself is directly adjacent to Road Town — Tortola’s capital — so you can literally walk off the ship and be in town within five minutes. The port area has a nice little setup with a few shops, food stalls (some with VERY pricey food like a $29 burger!), a cigar bar, and the obligatory array of jewelry stores for those who need to spend their casino winnings. There’s also a nice grassy area in the middle with a stage where a musician (who wasn’t all that bad) was playing throughout the day.
If you’re visiting Tortola, prepare yourself if you’re going to be booking excursions or exploring beyond the port itself as this island is hilly. I mean, really hilly. You’ll notice it right away as you sail in and see houses built seemingly straight up the mountainside. It’s pretty, but if you’re planning to explore beyond the pier, keep in mind that there’s not much in the way of flat, shady strolling.
As for safety, Tortola is one of the more laid-back and safe Caribbean islands to explore. The people are friendly, crime against tourists is rare, and you won’t be harassed endlessly by vendors because there literally are only a few, and they leave you alone. The biggest dangers here are tripping on uneven sidewalks or trying to cross the street while forgetting that in the British Virgin Islands, they drive on the left-hand side and tend to use the horn a lot. I mean a lot.
If you’re looking for things to do, you’ve got a few good options depending on how adventurous you want to get.
Right near the port, you can easily walk around Road Town, the island’s small capital, and that’s what I ended up doing. It’s not overflowing with attractions, but it’s worth a quick wander. You’ll find some local shops selling crafts and handmade jewelry, along with a few bars and cafes, but it’s otherwise pretty commercial with plenty of government buildings, lots of banks, and stores that aren’t dependent on tourist trade.
For a little history, there’s the Virgin Islands Folk Museum that gives a glimpse into the island’s culture and colonial past. And if you just want a peaceful beach day without straying too far, hop in a cab to Cane Garden Bay, about a 20-minute ride from the port. It’s one of Tortola’s most famous beaches and has a good mix of beach bars and restaurants.
If you’re more of an excursion person, some of the popular cruise line–arranged tours include a panoramic island drive that takes you up into the hills for some great views, or a trip to The Baths at Virgin Gorda, which lots of people did on this cruise as it’s a very popular place to visit.
The Baths has massive granite boulders that form natural caves, pools, and tunnels right on the beach. You can swim, climb, and explore through the formations, and the views are unreal. It’s about a 30-minute ferry ride from Tortola to Virgin Gorda, and it’s one of the excursions Virgin Voyages offers.
There’s also Smuggler’s Cove, a quieter, more off-the-beaten-path beach that’s perfect if you want to avoid the crowds altogether. Just know the road there is… let’s say “rustic.”
If you’re into water activities, you’ll find plenty of options like snorkeling, catamaran sails, or kayaking tours.
One thing to note — Tortola isn’t one of those islands where you can just walk a few minutes and be on a beach. You’ll need to take a taxi or book a tour if you want to really explore. Cabs are plentiful right outside the pier, and they’re usually shared vans with fixed prices depending on your destination. Just confirm the cost before hopping in, and make sure you’ve got some cash handy — most drivers prefer it.
A “Surprise” From Sir Richard Branson
Back on board today was right at 5:30 p.m., with an on-time sail away at 6:00 p.m. Shortly after departing Tortola, the Captain made an announcement that caught everyone’s attention: Sir Richard Branson had disembarked earlier in the day to return to his home on Necker Island, which, fittingly, is located right in the British Virgin Islands. He also hinted that around 7:30 p.m., as we sailed past his island, Richard had “a little treat” in store for us. We were encouraged to head out to the outer decks to see what was about to happen.
Now, of course, when someone says “Sir Richard Branson has a surprise planned,” the rumor mill goes into overdrive. People were tossing out guesses left and right — fireworks, a drone show, a lot of crazy speculation. Nobody knew which side of the ship to be on either, so it created a bit of confusion.
And then… well, it was a whole lot of nothing.
As the ship sailed through the pitch-black waters, all we could make out was Richard Branson kite surfing next to the ship. Yep, that was the big surprise. No fireworks, no drones, just the billionaire himself out there, gliding across the water in the dark, with one of the ship’s spotlights on him, like it was perfectly normal.
To his credit, it was kind of on-brand. Only Richard Branson would think, “You know what’ll blow their minds? Me, at night, with a kite and a surfboard.” Admirable, yes. Visually spectacular? Not so much. Most people clapped, some laughed, and a few just looked confused — but hey, how many times can you say you watched a billionaire kite surf past your cruise ship in the Caribbean?
Dinner at Extra Virgin
Once the “spectacle” was over I decided to head off for dinner at the restaurant that’s still holding the title for best meal of the cruise so far: Extra Virgin.
Since Scarlet Night festivities were just beginning to ramp up, I figured it was the perfect time to sneak in dinner before things got wild. I didn’t have a reservation, but I walked up around 7:45 p.m. and was seated right away. And for once, I didn’t end up as the lonely slice of bologna between two tables — they actually gave me a corner spot! Sure, I had one neighbor to my right, but I’ll take that as progress.
Extra Virgin Dinner Menu
My server came over, introduced himself, and started things off right by dropping off some warm focaccia bread with olive oil and balsamic. I ordered a Negroni, which was perfectly mixed — strong enough to be good but not so strong that I’d miss the Scarlet Night festivities later.
For dinner, I started with a small charcuterie board — a nice little mix of meats and cheeses to snack on while the main course was being prepared. Then came the main: a Gorgonzola-crusted New York strip steak, cooked a perfect medium, alongside a side of pappardelle bolognese because, let’s face it, when something’s that good, you order it twice on the same cruise.
Once again, everything was absolutely fantastic. The steak was tender and flavorful, the Gorgonzola added just the right bite, and the pasta — well, Extra Virgin’s bolognese continues to be the best. Service was on point as usual, attentive without being intrusive, and everything was timed perfectly.
As for dessert? I skipped it.
The Big Event: Scarlet Night
By the time dinner wrapped up, Scarlet Night was in full swing — and so was the ship. A special cocktail was featured all night long across every bar: the High on Life, a bright and bubbly mix of Ketel One Citroen, Aperol, strawberry, citrus, sparkling water, and a touch of sparkle, priced at $15.
This wasn’t just any night aboard Brilliant Lady — it was Virgin Voyages’ signature, ship-wide event and one of the biggest parties at sea.
If you’ve never sailed Virgin before, Scarlet Night is the event everyone talks about — part costume party, part immersive theater, and part “let’s just see where the night takes us.” The concept comes from Virgin’s quirky backstory about the Legend of the Scarlet Night, a mythical tale that ties into the brand’s overall lore. The story centers on the Scarlet Lady (yes, the name of Virgin’s first ship) and the power of the ocean’s love and transformation. It’s artsy, quirky, and I’m going to say it… weird — think of it as a cruise ship fairy tale meets rave where just about anything goes.
From early evening until 3 a.m., the entire ship transforms. Red lighting floods the corridors, lounges turn into mini dance parties complete with dark corners for making out, and just about every sailor onboard is decked out in every possible shade of red. If you didn’t wear red, you stuck out like a sore thumb — and you probably heard about it from someone who did.
All throughout the evening, there are spontaneous pop-up performances, photo booths (no photographers on Virgin), and some very strange entertainment, such as sea shanty singing, that I’m still asking myself “what the f&*k was that all about?” a day later. Performers appear from nowhere to sing or dance, and the atmosphere is… quirky. Maybe I’m getting old, but I found it a really odd event, though people got into it for sure. Perhaps the best part about it all for me was the people watching. Yes, people dressed up nice in fancy red attire, some were in tight shorts and half t-shirts, some were in just short red shorts with leather harnesses.
Once the party wrapped up inside the ship, the event moved outside for the Scarlet Night Pool Party, where everyone gathers on the open deck under a red glow. I ventured up, and it was once again an absolutely chaotic scene with music louder than some of the outfits and some things going on that I wish I could unsee.
When the pool party winds down, it’s still not over — there’s an after party in The Manor, the ship’s nightclub, for the crowd that’s definitely not ready for bed. That part goes until 3 a.m. How anyone could still be partying till then, I have no idea. But I know I was in bed long before the stroke of midnight.
Wrapping Up the Night
After taking in a good amount of Scarlet Night activities, I met up with someone I’ve seen around the ship a few times — one of those “we keep saying we should grab a drink” kind of people — so we finally did. We managed to find one of the few bars that wasn’t completely packed (which was no easy feat) and enjoyed a few cocktails before I called it a night.
Back in my room, being one floor below where the pool party was happening meant things were a bit on the noisy side, so I just hung out in the hammock on my balcony until that party wrapped up around 11:45 p.m., then it was off to dreamland.
Two back-to-back sea days are on tap next, and tomorrow I’ll be talking a bit about all the extra paid experiences you can book on Brilliant Lady. Until then, thanks for following along!