Holland America Zuiderdam Western Caribbean Cruise Review – Day 2: November 9, 2025

On the second day of this 7-day western Caribbean cruise, Zuiderdam dropped anchor off Holland America’s private island in the Bahamas — Half Moon Cay. Or, as the marketing folks in Seattle are now trying to rebrand it, “RelaxAway Half Moon Cay.” Yes, you read that right. RelaxAway.

Can we all agree that the name change is dumb? Somewhere, someone in corporate must have thought, “Hey, Royal Caribbean did Perfect Day at CocoCay, so let’s slap a random made-up word in front of our island name too.” Except… Half Moon Cay didn’t need fixing. It’s been iconic for nearly 30 years. So, sorry HAL, but it’ll forever be Half Moon Cay to me — and to most loyal cruisers, I’d bet.

Before we get into what’s happening on the island these days (and there’s a lot of construction going on), let’s take a quick look back at how this slice of paradise came to be.

Before cruise ships ever showed up, the island we know as Half Moon Cay was called Little San Salvador. It’s located between Eleuthera and Cat Island, about 100 miles southeast of Nassau. At just over 2,400 acres, it’s a good-sized island — though less than 3% of it has ever been developed. The rest remains a protected wildlife refuge, home to migratory birds and mangroves.

Back in December 1996, Carnival Corporation (Holland America’s parent company) purchased the island for $6 million from several Bahamian owners. At the time, there was… well, nothing here. No docks, no power, no water system, no roads — just raw island beauty.

Over the next year, Holland America invested heavily in developing a small cruise destination. They brought in generators, built water and sewage systems, dredged a lagoon for tenders, and constructed a few guest areas along the crescent-shaped beach. Fittingly, they renamed it Half Moon Cay, a nod both to the curve of the beach and Holland America’s heritage — their logo features Henry Hudson’s ship, the Halve Maen (which means Half Moon in Dutch).

Half Moon Cay officially welcomed its first guests on December 12, 1997, and it quickly became one of the most beloved private islands in the industry and is one of my top two favorites along with MSC Ocean Cay Marine Reserve. Today, it’s used by Holland America Line and occasionally other Carnival Corporation brands when schedules allow, but that is about to change.

Because the water here is shallow, the island doesn’t have a pier — at least not yet — so ships anchor offshore and passengers tender in. Honestly, it’s worth the short 10-minute boat ride; the moment you set foot on the powder-soft white sand, you understand why this place consistently ranks among cruisers’ favorite private islands.

What the heck is going on at Half Moon Cay?

We arrived off the coast of Half Moon Cay around 6 a.m., and by the time most passengers were awake, the island operation was already in full swing. Large supply boats — brought over from the island — were busy ferrying provisions ashore. Everything served on the island, from the burgers and chicken at the beach BBQ buffet to the drinks poured at the bars, is brought over from the ship. And at the end of the day, whatever’s left (plus all the equipment) makes the return trip back to Zuiderdam. It’s a well-oiled machine, and it’s run by the same crew members you see onboard. The bartenders slinging frozen mojitos on deck yesterday are now the ones handing them to you on the beach today.

Once the food, drinks, and staff were ashore, tender service started up around 8 a.m. The tenders here aren’t the ship’s orange lifeboats — they’re big, dedicated boats permanently stationed at the island, painted in Holland America Line livery, and able to carry about 200 passengers each. The ride over is short — maybe ten minutes, tops. So unlike that half-hour tender marathon to Belize I had last week on Queen Elizabeth, this one’s a quick “hop on, hop off” situation. Early risers who wanted to get ashore first needed tender tickets, but a short time later the crowds had evened out, and you could just walk right on with no wait.

Now, as soon look at the island from the ship, it’s impossible not to notice what’s going on — Half Moon Cay is a construction zone. The daily planner even mentioned it, which is rare for HAL, but they weren’t kidding. There are cranes, workers, and fresh construction fencing scattered across all different parts of the island. The changes are massive, and here’s the kicker — they’re not primarily for Holland America guests. Yep, even though this has always been HAL’s private island, it’s being expanded and re-engineered to share with their much louder cousin over at Carnival Cruise Line.

Since the island opened in 1997, Holland America has only ever used a small portion of the island — mostly the crescent-shaped beach, cabanas, and BBQ area. The rest has remained untouched. But Carnival Corporation (which owns both HAL and Carnival Cruise Line) decided it was time to make use of the “other half.” The north side of the island is now being transformed into a brand-new destination exclusively for Carnival Cruise Line ships, complete with a massive pier capable of handling the line’s Excel-class megaships like Mardi Gras, Carnival Celebration, and Carnival Jubilee, plus the new larger class of ship that’s coming soon.

The pier project is already well underway, with steel pilings visible from the ship. The dock will extend into deeper water on the far side of the island, and my construction photos show what will probably be a large welcome center, a large beach area, multiple bars and restaurants, and retail shops all taking shape. While Carnival hasn’t shared many details yet, the expectation is that it’ll be a self-contained “fun ship beach day” experience — not much different that their newly opened Celebration Key.

Over on the Holland America side, the upgrades are less flashy but still noticeable. The private cabanas — both the smaller single-story versions and the newer two-story family cabanas — have been remodeled and given a fresh coat of paint. The Captain Morgan Pirate Ship Bar, which was a fixture here for years, is gone, replaced by a new bar that feels more modern and less… piratey. (RIP, old wooden ship.) Another similar-sized bar is under construction a short distance away, giving guests more spots to grab a drink without trekking too far down the beach.

All the beach furniture has been replaced — brand-new loungers and clamshells tretch along the shoreline. The old ones have been retired to what I affectionately call the “Beach Chair Graveyard” at the far end of the island, which now looks like the final resting place for every broken chair since the early 2000s.

The construction on the HAL side is pretty minimal and doesn’t interfere with the beach, the BBQ, or any of the guest areas. But if you wander around, you’ll see trucks, fencing, and signs of active work. It’s clear more changes are still to come.

And before anyone asks why Holland America isn’t getting its own pier, the answer seems simple: logistics and money. With HAL ships averaging around 2,000 passengers, tendering isn’t the nightmare it would be for a 6,000-passenger Carnival ship. Financially, it probably didn’t make sense to build two separate piers on the same island. Plus, some would argue that tendering is part of the charm here at Half Moon Cay.

Officially, the Carnival Corporation announcement in late 2024 outlined a multi-year redevelopment project that will result in a dual-port setup: the north side (Carnival) will have the pier, new facilities, and “fun-ship” theming, while the south side (HAL) will keep the more serene, classic Half Moon Cay experience but with upgraded amenities. The pier construction is expected to finish in 2026, with the new Carnival beach area opening around the same time. HAL’s side will continue to operate normally throughout, with enhancements rolling out in phases.

For now, it’s business as usual on the beach. Whatever corporate branding nonsense happens later, this little corner of paradise still feels like classic Holland America.

Things to Do (and Eat, and Drink) on Half Moon Cay

When you’re spending the day on Half Moon Cay, don’t come expecting water slides, swimming pools, lazy rivers, or any of the over-the-top “private island resort” amenities you’ll find elsewhere. You won’t find a swim-up bar or a zipline over your head either — and honestly, that’s part of the charm. Here, it’s all about the beach.

The moment you step off the tender, you’ll enter the welcome plaza, which has a few shops and a bar. Some of the small shops are run by locals, and a friendly tip — bring cash if you plan on buying souvenirs there. They don’t take your ship card, so unless you’re planning on bartering with seashells, have a few dollars on hand.

From there, you’ll walk down a short path that leads to an endless stretch of beach — rows and rows of loungers just steps from the water. This is the reason Half Moon Cay consistently ranks among the top cruise line private islands. The sand is powder soft and the water is crystal clear.

If you want to level up your beach day, you can rent one of the private cabanas, which start around $699 per day. There are also smaller clamshell loungers for rent if you just want some sun protection without the luxury price tag.  For the more active crowd, you can go horseback riding in the surf, rent jet skis, or even go kayaking or paddleboarding. But honestly, most people do the same thing I did — grab a chair, a drink, and just soak in the view.

When lunchtime rolls around, head to the Island BBQ, where the ship’s culinary team puts on a cookout with burgers, hot dogs, grilled chicken, salads, fruit, and desserts — all complimentary. It’s casual, beachy, and the food is surprisingly good and there’s plenty of picnic tables under cover to enjoy your food without blazing in the sun.

If you want something a little different (and you don’t mind paying extra), head to the Lobster Shack right on the beach. They grill up lobster right in the shack and also serve lobster rolls, and bowls of creamy chowder. I couldn’t resist a tail and a lobster roll, and they were excellent!

Now, about the drinks — here’s the thing: your drink package doesn’t work on the island. All beverages purchased ashore are billed directly to your onboard account. So yes, those piña coladas and mojitos will show up later on your statement.  I’ll dive into Holland America’s drink packages and their Have it All package in tomorrow’s report.

After exploring nearly the entire island — including wandering near the construction area — I decided to go for a dip. The water temperature was a “chilly” 80 degrees, which for me is right on the border of “too cold for me.” I hadn’t planned on swimming, so I didn’t bring a towel, but I went in anyway and just accepted that I’d be wet on the tender ride back. Pro tip: bring your towel from your stateroom, because there are no towels available on the island.

By late-afternoon, the beach had thinned out a bit, the sun was starting to dip, and it was time to call it a day. All aboard was 4:30 p.m., giving us a full day of fun in the sun.

Evening Shenanigans

Tonight was a casual dress night on board, and when evening rolled around the ship was buzzing with activity. After a long day in the sun, it seemed like everyone was out and about — the casino, lounges, and bars were all packed.  A far departure from the Mary Celeste (Queen Elizabeth) last week!

I started the night in the casino, since I had some free play to use. Finding an open slot machine wasn’t easy; the place was absolutely packed, and this is not a casino cruise. The casino on Zuiderdam is 100% non-smoking, which I appreciate. It shares an open floorplan with Billboard Onboard, the piano lounge. If you’ve sailed HAL in the past, you might remember when Billboard had two piano players (and no, they weren’t “dueling”). But now, one piano has been removed, leaving just a single performer holding down the fort.

The casino area also connects directly to the Gallery Bar, a beautiful, art-themed venue with plush seating, walls covered in artwork, and a few TVs playing sports. Between the shared airspace and the fancy decor, smoking here just isn’t allowed — sorry, smokers, but you’ll need to step outside.

After losing my free play (shocker), I grabbed a Negroni at the Gallery Bar before wandering the ship a bit. I eventually ended up at the Ocean Bar for another cocktail, hoping to recapture the magic of the gin & tonics I’d been hooked on last week at Queen Elizabeth’s Gin & Fizz lounge. Sadly, I was let down. The gin and spirits selection here isn’t particularly broad, and — gasp — there’s no Fever-Tree tonic water, just Seagram’s. That’s practically a crime in the gin world. Let’s just say the G&Ts on Zuiderdam leave a lot to be desired.

When dinner time rolled around, I made my way back to the Main Dining Room. As I mentioned yesterday, Zuiderdam offers both open seating and traditional early and late seatings. The early and late diners are on Deck 3, while the open-seating guests dine on Deck 2. I asked to be seated with the same service team I had last night, and they happily accommodated me — a nice touch that really shows HAL’s dedication to service.

Lido Buffet Dinner Menu – Day 2

Main Dining Room Menu – Day 2

Tonight’s menu had a Caribbean theme, so I kicked things off with a Jamaican beef patty, which was basically a golden, flaky empanada stuffed with spicy, savory ground beef — delicious. For my entrée, I splurged on a $20 up-charge Pinnacle Grill 12-oz New York strip steak, cooked perfectly medium-rare and served with a baked potato and creamed spinach. It was outstanding — tender, flavorful, and huge. Honestly, it felt closer to 16 ounces than 12. For dessert, I went with the cheese plate, which was a perfect finish after that steak.

Once again, service was fantastic — professional and never rushed. Everything was served at an unhurried pace, which is exactly what you want after a relaxing beach day.

After dinner, I took a walk around the Promenade Deck before calling it an early night. The sun absolutely kicked my ass today, and tomorrow we’ve got a full sea day ahead as we make our way toward Ocho Rios, Jamaica.

The captain made his evening announcement a little before dinner and shared some important updates about our stop in Jamaica. The port at Ocho Rios is once again open and welcoming cruise ships following the recent hurricane, but Falmouth and Montego Bay are still closed, expected to reopen in mid-December. When we arrive in Jamaica, Zuiderdam will first dock at the cargo pier around 6 a.m. to offload pallets of food, water, and aid supplies for local relief efforts before moving to the cruise pier around 8 a.m. for guests to disembark.

He also announced a special “On Deck for a Cause” walk this week to raise funds for Jamaican recovery and relief efforts, which I think is a great touch. The captain did caution guests that some areas near the port are still recovering and recommended sticking to ship-organized excursions to ensure a safe and reliable experience ashore.

So that’s it for today — another great day, another great meal, and a solid night of rest ahead. Tomorrow’s a sea day, and then it’s on to Jamaica. As always, thanks for following along.

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